March 2023 – Meandering on the Way

March 25, 2023

Meandering on the Way — March 13 to 24, 2023

Monday March 13

We spent the morning finalizing our itinerary for the next ten days: France, Switzerland, Germany, then back to Madrid. We have friends in Switzerland and Germany. We have no good reason to stop in France, but we’re doing that anyway.

Tuesday March 14

In order to travel a bit lighter, we’ve leaving one of our suitcases behind in Madrid, where L has kindly agreed to keep it for us. So today, we packed it full of this and that and made the trip out to Rivas to drop it off. Turns out we also got a wonderful lunch: a kind of Catalan paella made with pasta called Fideuá.

Then it was back to Calle del Trinquete (Topmast Street) to spend our last night in the rental apartment. Six weeks it’s been. We had a very light supper because after the sumptuous banquet at L’s, we didn’t need a big one. The menu was green salad with tuna dressed with oil from the can. As always, we could look out from the dining nook to see a small slice of city.

Wednesday March 15

Up at 7:00 for a bit of breakfast, then out the door for the last time. We rolled our suitcases down the familiar 12–minute walk to the Manoteras metro stop. Then it was four stops to Mar de Cristal and a transfer to Línea 8 for the ride out to the airport. By 10:30 we were settled into our seats for our flight to Lyon. Compared to the seats on the intercity trains, the ones on the Airbus 320 looked like folded postage stamps…but they sufficed. The worst thing is that we were seated in row 31 of a 31 row aircraft. Thanks, travel agency, great work.

We landed at the Lyon airport at around 12:40. We were in no hurry, so we decided to have lunch there. The weather was a bit cooler than in Madrid, but still mostly sunny. After lunch we took the airport train into the city center. Once there, as soon as we walked out of the main railway station, we could see a rank of waiting taxis just across the street. It’s true that everyone was speaking French instead of Spanish and E kept wondering if we had somehow gotten to Quebec, but other than that, what an easy life.

As we approached the taxi rank, we saw that the driver of the first taxi in line was out of his car and was engaged in conversation with a potential customer, one who did not look pleased about how the conversation was going. We looked at the driver of the second cab in the rank, who looked back at us but then got out of his car and said something to the other driver before looking at us again. E told him where we wanted to go and he shook his head and got back in his car. Just then, the other customer walked away and first driver turned to us to explain that it was not possible to take us anywhere near where we wanted to go due to the manifestation.

We had already heard that French president Macron had proposed raising the French retirement age from 62 to 64 by 2030. France has the lowest retirement age of any developed country and a lot of French people think that that is an excellent state of affairs and shouldn’t be messed with. Hence, strikes and demonstrations have been ongoing. So..how could we get to our hotel? Possibly by Metro, was the answer.

Being modern people, we next asked our phones how to get to the hotel. Siri suggested a combination of tram and bus. And just up the street was a tram hub. Off we went to find our tram line. Once there, we found a small difficulty: an electronic sign at the stop was showing the message Service Interdite. We may not know too much French, but we could guess what that meant. It meant that the tram couldn’t get through either. So, back to the Metro idea. But how to do it? E phoned the hotel. The receptionist kindly gave us instructions in English and off we went, down into a nearby metro station. Our motto? Onward!

Four stops and one transfer later we emerged. We were still a ways from our hotel, but it was walkable. Just as we were getting our bearings, however, we noticed something else—the imminent arrival of a large and rather noisy manifestation at exactly our location!

Well, that was exciting. After taking in the sights for a bit, we edged around the fringe of the crowd and set off toward our destination, the Hotel Citadines (on the) Presqu’ile. This was near the oldest part of Lyon, which dates from the Roman era when a camp and later a city were established at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône rivers. For a short distance, just before they meet, the two rivers run parallel to one another, less than half a mile apart. The land between isn’t really an island, but it kind of seems like one. Hence the name in French, Presqu’ile, which means “almost island, or peninsula.” But whatever its meaning, what we’re wondering—after all the effort it took to get here—is whether this is a good location for a hotel in 2023? Well, as we discover, yes it is. For one thing it’s close to the extensive Roman ruins and their associated museum and for another it’s right at one end of restaurant row: a dozen or more interesting restaurants just a few steps away. Thanks, travel agency, all is forgiven.

Lyon cooking is famous all over France; some consider it to be the country’s culinary center. And indeed we had a fantastic dinner. We don’t have the expertise or the vocabulary to describe it all, but we do remember this much. They have a thing called quenelle, which is sort of like a large croquette. But it is cooked in broth like a dumpling rather than fried. It is then served in a sauce. They make it with various fillings and various sauces. E’s was made with pike and was delicious. Even better was her first course: a poached egg floating in a sauce made with a special cheese. The name of this dish is Oeufs Cocotte au Saint-Marcellin.

Thursday March 16

We spent the next day exhausting ourselves by walking across the Saône and trudging up the thousand foot hill on the other side. Our goal was to see the Roman ruins and the newly rebuilt museum. We also thought we should take a look at this basilica that we could see from down below.

We took this picture from just halfway up a long, long hill.

On the way up we stopped to see the ruins. There is also a large museum at the site, but the museum is built into the hillside and camouflaged in such a way as to be invisible.

Here’s the view we got from the basilica. Our hotel is somewhere in there, just to the right of the bridge and one street away from the river. Those snow covered things in the far background are the Alps.

Once we got back to our hotel, we wondered what was going on with the political situation. It was bad, but how bad no one really knew. Lyon seemed calm, but there were riots and burning vehicles in Paris and there were calls for a nationwide rail strike. Yikes. Might we be marooned on this almost island for days or weeks or years? Well, maybe not years. Still, we are scheduled to leave Lyon by train tomorrow. We hope that works out…

Friday March 17

And in fact all went well. A taxi(!) took us to the train station. A French train took us to Geneva; a Swiss train took us to Bern; our friend Urs picked us up and drove us to the suburb of Belp, at which point we had a delicious fondue dinner. Urs and Ursula (The Bears) are old friends of E’s, also from her time in Chicago when Roberto was in graduate school there.

Here’s a view out the train window. At this point, we’re in Switzerland near Geneva.

The last ice breaking up on Lake Geneva.

Here’s a view from inside the Geneva main train station. This restaurant offers a Whiskey Burger made with “beef carefully selected from our own Swiss farms.”

Our dinner was extra special because our hosts’ daughter Eva found time to join us. In fact it was she who brought the fondue. Eva is a heart surgeon these days and the mother of twin ten-year-olds. Way back in 1993, though, she was a high school student spending a year living with E in Corvallis, Oregon. During that year, Eva convinced E that humans were meant to eat butter and that margarine was not a good thing. Another example of the benefits of intercultural exchange.

Saturday March 18

We went train touring today. We had a one day pass to ride free on any form of public transport anywhere in Switzerland and a little bit of Italy. We went all over the place, including a few places in the mountains where whoever built the tracks must have been both very competent and a little crazy.

The pastures are just turning green while snow lingers on the Alps. Good time to visit.

Just for a bit we dipped down into northern Italy. This is the town of Domodossola, where pretty much everything is cheaper than it is in Switzerland.

Up on the side of one mountain, looking over a few more.

We got back to Bern around 10:00 that night, having definitely used our train passes to advantage. Since we’d had a lot of pizza in Domodossola, dinner was a light repast of ham, cheese, bread and beer. Okay, maybe not super light, but it was awesome.

Sunday March 19

Today we visited Gruyère. We went by car this time; it was about an hour’s drive. The town of Gruyère is on a hill overlooking a broad valley of green pasture land dotted with farms and villages. It’s such a pretty view that it would be a shame to spoil it by building a highway through it. Yes, but what about the thousands of visitors who want to visit? A high capacity road is needed. What to do? How about putting some of the highway into a tunnel that goes under the farmers’ fields? Would that work? Well, apparently it would.

Today’s excursion was to the town of Gruyère, traditional home of the eponymous cheese. Did we get on yet another train? No. We went by car. It was about an hour’s drive away. As we neared the town, we came into a valley of green pastureland dotted with farm houses and small villages. The whole place is so pretty looking that it would be a shame to build a busy highway through the middle of it. But what about the thousands and thousands of people who want to visit Gruyère every year? Well, why not build a couple of tunnels to take the road underground and leave the pastures undisturbed? Which seems to be what they’ve done. The old fortress town of Gruyère is on a hill overlooking the farmland.

The old city is more a monument than a town at this point and is definitely a tourist magnet.

Here’s what the main drag looks like looking down the street from the castle.

A view from the old castle fortress at the top of Gruyère city. This newish church is outside the city walls and down the hill a ways.

Below the town of Gruyère there is a demonstration cheese factory. Naturally, we had to check it out. Here’s a photo of the maturing room. The cheese is aged for six, nine or twelve months. At this factory there are around 7,000 wheels being aged at any one time.

These wheels weigh 80 pounds and have a retail value of about $2,000 each.

Monday March 20

Time to say goodbye to our friends and hit the road for another day of traveling. We went from Bern to Zurich by train, Zurich to Hamburg by air, and then got another train to get downtown. Here’s the Hamburg main train station, from which we finally emerged.

Northern Germany was gray and damp, but it was nice to be outside for a while as we took a short walk from the station to our hotel.

Tuesday March 21

We had chosen the Senator Hotel ourselves, sight unseen. It turned out we were pretty good travel agents because it was to a wonderful place. It gives a modest first impression and yet it has all that one could ask, including a delightful breakfast room on an enclosed terrace overlooking the street. We would like to have stayed in Hamburg another night or two, but we had places to go and promises to keep. We only had time for a couple of hours to take an unguided walking tour of nearby sights.

The old city hall, (the Rathaus in German) was wonderfully ornate.

St. Nikolai church was mostly destroyed by bombing in 1943 and 1944. The spire remains intact along with a small part of one wall. The entire site remains as a reminder of the impact of war.

In the afternoon we took another train, this time to Rostock, Germany, about two hours away. We stayed at a cheap, new, and trendy hotel called Motel One. It wasn’t too bad.

Wednesday March 22

Our friend Umut picked us up this morning and after dropping off our luggage at his place, we set off on an expedition to Lübeck, our goal being the marzipan museum. Yes, another food related project. Do we detect a theme here? Of course there is much more to Lübeck than marzipan.

For one thing, they have Easter decorations (made of marzipan).

And they appreciate literary figures like Thomas Mann (also made of marzipan).

And of course they have a lot of history. It’s just a coincidence that all of these things involve marzipan.

We also visited the St. Petri’s, a place with quite a history. Originally a large Catholic Church dating from the 13th century, it was taken over by Lutherans a few centuries later. At that time, all the ornate carvings and metal work were removed. The gold was melted down and used to fund whatever war was going on at the time. As per Lutheran principles, the interior walls, ceilings and supporting pillars were all painted plain white. The building survived until 1942 when it was mostly destroyed during a British bombing raid. The raid came in response to an earlier German raid on the British city of Coventry. After the war, the ruins of St. Petri’s were partially covered to preserve them. Then, in the 1980’s, a campaign was launched to rebuild the church. To mark the project’s completion in 1987, a choir from Coventry came to the church and joined a Lübeck choir for a performance of Benjamin Britten’s Requiem for War.

We rode the elevator to the top of the St. Petri’s spire. The space up there was memorable for two reasons: great views of the city and a biting cold wind.

The thing with the twin spires was one of the main gates into town in medieval times.

There was another big church nearby. These Lübeck people do love their spires.

Thursday March 23

We’re staying a couple of nights with our friends Umut and Jacqueline in the town of Kröpelin, which is just a few miles from Rostock. This area is in the German state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. To the north is the Baltic Sea; to the east lies Poland. We kept closer to home today, spending much of the day exploring the coast. We passed one place where you can buy yourself a four-story beachside chalet if you like. Prices start at around 10 million dollars. The weather was cool and windy, not totally different from the Oregon coast at this time of year. The great difference, though, is that the Oregon coast is mountainous. But here, on the Baltic coast, the land in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern is flat as a board.

In the afternoon we had a look around the town of Kröpelin. The town name has the same Germanic root as the English word ‘cripple.’ And, in fact, the town was named after a differently abled person. The story goes that a man who couldn’t walk made a bet with the king that he could get himself from one end of the county to the other before sundown. The king took the bet and lost. The name Kröpelin commemorates the events.

This is the town symbol as preserved in the small Kröpelin Museum.

The town museum is in an old building with three stories. A public library occupies the first floor; a museum of town history is on the second floor; and on the third floor we found something unexpected: a shrine to East German rock bands of the sixties and seventies. It was called the Ostrockmuseum Kröpelin. There were dozens and dozens of photographs, posters, album covers, and articles of clothing, plus quite a collection of period guitars, drums and audio equipment. Had we ever heard of the bands? No. In that era East Germany—whose official name was the German Democratic Republic—was behind the iron curtain. The band members couldn’t travel to Western Europe and we doubt that many bands from the West ever toured the GDR. But rock and roll itself was alive and well, and here was the evidence to prove it. If you’re ever in Kröpelin, you need to drop in. Admission costs 1.50 Euros.

Soon it was time to head home and start thinking about packing up for an early departure the next morning. It was a short but quite wonderful visit.

Friday March 24

Up at 5:00 AM to begin another long travel day: Rostock to Hamburg to Brussels to Madrid. By 5:30 PM we were in Madrid, having completed our great European tour.

March 12, 2023March 12, 2023

Meandering on the Way — March 6 to 12, 2023

Monday March 6

We took the train south to Córdoba today. Our train was an Avant, which are high speed trains that make more stops than the intercity expresses. But even with a few stops, the 190 miles to Córdoba went by in less than two hours. So comfortable, so much leg room, and so much elbow room—just three seats across: two seats, a wide aisle, then one more seat on the other side.

The Romans founded Córdoba sometime around the year 150 BC. The oldest part of town is on the north bank of the Guadalquiver River and eventually, in around 75 BC, the Romans got around to building a bridge to the south bank. Eight centuries later, the bridge remained but the Romans had gone and the Muslim Umayyads ruled southern Spain. Somewhere around the year 750 the Umayyads did a major renovation of the bridge. After that, the bridge remained in continuous use until the middle of the 20th Century. Until 1940, it was the only bridge in town. These days it’s still in use, but it’s pedestrian only.

The building in the background above is the Great Mosque of Córdoba. But, you may object, if it’s a mosque, what’s that Christian-looking bell tower and cross and stuff.? Well, that’s because since 1356 the place has had a new owner. Like many new owners, they’ve been doing some remodeling. And they’ve turned it into a cathedral.

It’s still very mosquelike inside, light and airy like most mosques, even though it was built 1200 years ago.

It’s a huge space. The building is a rectangle a block long and most of a block wide. Presumably all the interior walls at one time looked like this….

Only a few of these original Umayyad style interior panels still exist. Dozens of others have been replaced by elaborate Christian-type niches. There’s also a huge organ, an elaborately carved wooden choir box and a beautiful basilica.

Much of the Christian stuff is beautiful in its way, but the overall effect is as if someone planted groups of showy exotic flowers at random places in a tranquil natural landscape. But never mind, much of the original effect is still there, especially in the Patio of the Orange Trees shown below.

In the afternoon we took a tour of the city. Here’s our tour bus. It was called a tuk-tuk, but being electric, it didn’t do a lot of tukking.

One stop on the tour was the 13th Centrury Santa Marina church, which was built soon after the Muslims were forced out of the city by King Ferdinand III. The site previously was occupied by a mosque.

Tuesday March 7

Responding to a reader request, we also visited the old Córdoba Synagogue. It was a ten minute walk from our hotel through a maze of medieval era streets.

The upper floor is the women’s section..

…and here is an inscription just above it.

The inscription reads: “Provisional sanctuary and abode for the Testimony completed by Yishaq Moheb, son of Mr. Efraím Wadawa, in the year of seventy-five. So return, Oh God hasten to return to Jerusalem!”

On the way back from the synagogue E stopped to talk with Maimonides, the great 12th Century philosopher, scholar and physician. Maimonides was born in Córdoba, but alas, he was born a hundred years too soon to have worshipped in the synagogue we had just seen.

Amazingly, while E was there the Maimonides statue actually bent down and spoke to her! M quickly snapped a photo but found later that it had disappeared from his phone! E has not revealed what it was that Maimonides said.

After visiting the synagogue and doing a little shopping in the morning, we got back onto a train in the early afternoon. Before long we were in Granada and safely into the Hotel Grisol de Guadalupe, up on a hill, just across the road from the Alhambra. That evening we took a walk down the hill for a ways and got this view of the oldest part of the city.

Wednesday March 8

Granada is a city of about 225,000 people and, to be honest, most of it doesn’t look at all like the old part shown in the last photo. Granada is home to a number of universities and, of course, to one of the most popular tourist attractions in Europe. One of our taxi drivers said that education and tourism are the only two things that keep the city alive. He claimed that the Alhambra gets an average of 8,000 visitors per day.

The Alhambra is a large complex of palaces and gardens on a hill overlooking the city. It consists of three main areas. The Alcazaba is a fortress dating from the 11th Century. The Nasrid palaces were built later and were home to the rulers of Muslim Spain for about 300 years. The Generalife is a garden complex on a hill above the palaces. The Nasrid palaces are the star attraction and access is by appointment only. Our appointed time was 2:00 PM, so we went into the complex at a little after 12:00 and went to the Generalife first.

One of the nice things about these Muslim era gardens is how much water there is: in pools, in fountains, and best of all, flowing in small stone runnels along one’s path or across the courtyards.

A view from the Generalife down into other parts of the complex.

Here are a few photos from inside the Nasrid palace. They hardly do it justice.

Thursday March 9

We managed to get back to Madrid today, despite an unexpected two hour layover at a new high speed rail station in the middle of nowhere.

Was it lunchtime? Yes. Was there a cafe at the station? No, there was a vending machine. Did the cellophane wrapped sandwiches all have a little blurb that said Improved Recipe? Yes! What exactly had the recipe been improved from? Very hard to say. And who, you might ask, is to blame for this scheduling catastrophe? Well, you might ask, but we might not say…

Sunday. March 12

Nice spring weather these days with highs of around 70. We are pausing to rest up and plan our next phase. It’s almost time to say goodbye to our little apartment. We’re visiting some of our local shops for the last time. While M was busy working on the blog, E took an excursion to visit her former neighborhood downtown. She walked through the Retiro Park and found that Avenida Menéndez Pelayo #37 was still intact. Roberto’s family owned three apartments in the building. E lived on the second floor in the back. E remembers that most buildings in Madrid were dingy looking back in the day. Pollution levels are much lower now and everything seems spiffier.

Later, as she returned to her current Madrid neighborhood and emerged from the dark caverns of the metro, she was greeted by this sure sign of spring.

March 5, 2023March 5, 2023

Meandering on the Way — Feb. 27 to Mar. 5, 2023

Monday, February 27

On E’s birthday, we had one overriding objective: a visit to the Chocolatería San Ginés to have chocolate con churros. Here’s what that might look like:

The idea is to dip the long fried things into the thick chocolate.

First, though, we had to take care of a few other details, such as shopping for a birthday present. We took the Metro down to the heart of Madrid, where there are lots of stores, all quite convenient to the Chocolatería San Ginés. First we shopped for a purse. E is very particular about purses, so naturally we took a look at Hermes, Gucci, and Valentino. But E didn’t see anything she liked. For one thing, their purses didn’t have enough zipper pockets. So we went to the Corte Ingles, a well-known Spanish department store. And eventually she found the perfect thing. It didn’t cost $6,000, not even $600, more like $60. M was sort of disappointed, but he got over it. Then we went to the Apple Store and got E a new phone case. Here’s the loot:

Then it was time for lunch. We met our friends L and M as agreed, but the restaurant where we had planned on going had a huge line, so we set off for the Coffee Central de Jazz, which was more accessible.

No jazz going on in the afternoon, but a group called the Bobby Martínez Band were scheduled to play later that evening.

Finally it was time for the main event. We went to San Ginés Street, stood in line for 25 minutes or so, and finally were ushered down to a tiny table in the basement.

The *San Ginés* has a number of different serving rooms, which are all jammed with patrons, pretty much all the time. It’s insane.

Tuesday, February 28

(Before we continue, readers should be warned that another person whose name begins with M is about to appear. Which is ridiculous, but there you are and something must be done. We have been forced to amend our style book to allow the use of last name initials as well as first name initials. And Spanish women usually have two last names and hence three total initials, which is something to keep in mind. Ready? Okay, here we go.)

We’ve already mentioned one friend of Eve’s from her days in Chicago. She was the M who took us up to Leon for the day. In our new style, she will be referred to as MTC. Today we got to meet another old Chicago friend when MB drove over from Paris and stopped in to Madrid. MTC and MB have kept up their connection over the years, but E had not seen MB for 51 years. She was pleased to find that his sense of humor remained unchanged, and issued him an invitation to make a special appearance in the Laughter Yoga class in the future.

It was decided that the four of us would go together to the the town of Ávila for the day. We left at ten in the morning, traveling in MB’s hybrid SUV, a fine vehicle for such an expedition. The drive up took a little over an hour. Like most medieval cities, Ávila was a walled town. Unlike most similar cities, Ávila’s walls are intact and still surround the oldest part of the city. When we arrived, our first stop was the cathedral, which is of course inside the old city walls.

The sandstone from which the building was constructed has a lot of iron content, which creates a striking effect.

The cathedral also has its own line of yoyos.

We had our midday meal at a restaurant called Almacén, that had been recommended to MTC by a friend who has a house in Ávila. Almacén was a ways out of town on the highway leading to Salamanca and was barely noticeable if you were just driving by. But we found it.

At Almacén we had a view of the south walls of Ávila and also a long, slow, and very excellent meal. MB chose a rosé champagne to go with our starters and a twenty-one year old Tempranillo to go with our main course. Both were delicious.

On the way home from Ávila we stopped to see El Escorial, the largest renaissance building in the world. It was built by order of King Phillip the Second in the mid 16th Century, partly because he wanted a summer place where he could escape the intense heat of Madrid summers. Besides being a royal residence, the building also contains a monastery, a library, a museum, a basilica, a university, a school, and a hospital.

You can see a little bit of the Escorial behind these people…

….and here’s what distant Madrid looks like from there.

Wednesday, March 1

Among the presents that E got for her birthday were a couple of tickets to a special art exhibition at the Royal Palace of Madrid, and today was the day. Off we went, down into the Metro, emerging 40 minutes later at a stop just in front of the Madrid Opera House. The Royal Palace was just a short walk away. It’s a huge place and our first problem was to figure out where the heck the entrance was. Eventually we spied a large mass of people off in the distance and that, of course, was the place.

There were hundreds of people waiting to enter. Some were there for the art exhibition like us, but there were also many, many others who merely wished to tour the palace. Besides the building and the decor, visitors can see paintings by Caravaggio, Goya and Velasquez as well as frescos and museum collections of porcelain, watches, furniture, and weapons. Also on hand is a complete Stradivarius string quartet—two violins, cello and viola. Stradivarius gave the set to King Felipe V in 1702. E once took a tour of the Royal Palace and remembers that it was amazing.

As mentioned before, the Royal Palace is a big place, big enough to have its own cathedral at one end of the courtyard. Here’s a picture of that.

But we were there to see the art of Joaquin Sorolla, a Spanish painter who was born in Valencia in on 1863, on February 27, the same day as someone else we know. In addition to several dozen paintings, the special exhibit had three more parts: a detailed timeline of Sorolla’s life, a special projection room where his paintings were enhanced with animation and projected giant sized onto all four walls at once, and finally a virtual reality portion where we had to don a special headset with heavy binocular-like glasses. That part was unlike any experience we had had before. We were told that we could touch anything we saw except for green statues, because the green statues were actual people. E proceeded to try to grab several butterflies which eluded capture by turning into soap bubbles and floating away. Then she collided with a green statue which spoke with M’s voice. At that point we walked off a bridge and came back to reality. What would Sorolla have thought of all this?

*A Walk on the Beach* (1909) is perhaps Sorolla’s most famous painting and it was among the ones we saw.

Sorolla is especially noted for beautifully luminous colors. He liked to paint by the seaside and some of his most powerful works are of fishermen and their boats on the beach in Valencia. Unlike some of his contemporaries, Sorolla was extremely successful during his lifetime. One of Sorolla’s admirers was Archer Huntington of New York, who commissioned him to produce a series of large scale paintings to be installed at the Hispanic Society of America in New York. This series, called Visions of Spain, has become part of the permanent collection at the Society’s Library and Museum. To mark the 100th anniversary of Sorolla’s death, the Hispanic Society is just now collaborating with the National Arts Club to mount an exhibition about the creation of the Visions series. That exhibition will run until April 25th at the NAC.

Thursday, March 2

Were we ready for more high culture today? Nope. Had to do laundry and other household chores. Then at noon E went off to have a delicious lunch with MTC followed by a visit to MTC’s hairdresser. The results are quite attractive, but E needs to get used to the look before we publish a photo. M, meanwhile, took the subway four stops down to Mar de Cristal in search of allergy medicine. The stuff he likes is available in Spain under the brand name Alercina, but it seems that not every pharmacy stocks it. Mar de Cristal is a big shopping area and M was hoping to find it there. And even if he couldn’t find the medicine, he could have lunch at the kebab place.

Friday, March 3

Our first order of business today was to make train and hotel arrangements for a trip to Cordoba and Granada. That took three excruciating hours. Our first mistake was to try to buy train tickets online using the RENFE website. Aargh! So much data entry, so many choices among unfamiliar options. So many mysterious roadblocks. We could have rented a car! We could have flown! Why are we doing this at all? But we got there in the end, mostly because we abandoned the Renfe website and used Trainline instead. The train is considerably faster than driving and considerably cheaper than flying. The only flaw in our reservations is that we ended up with one leg of the journey where we won’t be sitting together—close, but not together. And what was our reward for all this work? We got to go grocery shopping.

Later in the day, around 4:30, we went down to our little shopping area on Añastra Street. E was in search of a pedicure. She had her eye on a nail shop that we had passed before and now she was ready to walk in and ask for an appointment. Such things can be really daunting in a foreign country, whether you speak the language or not. So in she went, while M loitered outside. She was able to get an appointment for 5:30 that very day. So we sat down to wait at a cafe, outside in the sun, and had tea. In the end all was well with the toenails.

Saturday, March 4

Today we went to look at more pictures, this time at the Reina Sofia Museum. The Reina Sofia specializes in 20th century art and has a large number of Surrealist and Cubist paintings and sculpture. They have a number of Picasso paintings and sculptures, quite a few Dalis, and bunch of other things including photos by Man Ray and this nice Yves Tanguy.

The most famous painting at the Reina Sofia is Picasso’s Guernica. It’s amazing. For one thing, it’s huge—12 feet high and 25 and half feet long. The subject is grim—the bombing of a Spanish town by German bombers during the Spanish Civil War—and execution is pure Picasso. People just stand there and stare at it till their feet get tired.

When our feet got tired we went into a small theater that was playing Luis Buñuel’s film The Golden Age. It’s a silent film in black and white and it’s really odd. The two of us were laughing, but everyone else in the room was meh. Guess you have to be old.

Of course there was more in the Reina Sofia than we had the strength to see, so at 2:00 we decided to head home and get some lunch at a place in our neighborhood. That sounded easy enough. We got onto the Metro, our trusty Line 1, which should have taken us almost all the way home. But instead, our journey came to a stop when the train reached a place called Cuatro Caminos. As the doors opened, we heard an announcement. Our train would not be going further and all passengers had to get off. No mention was made of what passengers might do once they got off. We decided to part ways with the Metro and headed for the surface. Once there, we were glad we did. Cuatro Caminos is an area of Madrid that Eve used to frequent and even after 40 years she recognized the area well enough. Though much had changed, it was nice to relive some memories. After a short stroll down a boulevard called Raimundo Fernandez Villaverde, we got a taxi, which took us to the restaurant that we had intended to go to in our own neighborhood.

It was 2:45 by then and El Rincón de Carlos was really hopping. The atmosphere was lively with lots of banter between the waiter/manager and the customers. One older woman told the waiter—in a voice loud enough to be heard by most of the customers—that she wanted the eggs stuffed with tuna for her first course and to make sure she got lots of tuna. The waiter replied, quick as a flash, that the stuffed eggs were already made and she would get them the way they were. This got a laugh from the crowd. After a moment, the waiter continued, saying “This is not a gas station, you can’t just fill it up as far as you want.” This got another laugh and throughout the exchange the old woman was grinning as if that was exactly the response she had hoped to get. And then of course E had to join in the banter. So it was a fun time, and the meal, though slowish, was very good. It seems to us that this would be a great neighborhood to live in for a year or two. We could get a real apartment and little car of some kind…

It was a beautiful springlike day at that point and walking home was a pleasure. One the way M finally got some pictures of our resident parrots. They are quite beautifully green, but they are also an invasive species whose numbers are growing rapidly all over Madrid.

The city government has a plan to deal with the problem, a plan which does not involve trapping them all and relocating them to some parrot paradise outside of town. No.

Sunday, March 5

Went out for Sunday breakfast to a bakery restaurant that we hadn’t tried before. They had tons of tempting stuff, more than we’ll ever get around to trying. E did fulfill her wish to have a palmera de mermelada de melocotón, a palm tree shaped pastry with peach jam. It lived up to her fond memory of it.

We can see that the weather is turning. Warmer and wetter, says the forecast. We felt a few drops on our way home from the bakery. Tomorrow we head south.