Meandering on the Way — April 19 to 26

Friday, April 19th

M loaded his truck with camping things and started off on his trip to explore northwestern Nevada. The first day’s drive was a familiar one, southeast across the Cascades and down to the town of Lakeview, near the California border. There he stopped for the night at a motel. Lakeview hasn’t improved much over the years, but it’s a handy stopping place. This time through, M avoided the Aguila Real Mexican restaurant and dined on the second half of big sandwich he had purchased about 150 miles back. He paired this with a very small bottle of Korbel champagne.

Back in Corvallis, E dealt with the sickly rosemary plant in the front yard. Last fall she’d stuck it into her best large pot. It did well at first but the winter was hard on it. It is still alive but is not thriving and E has lost patience. She wrestled it out–without resorting to breaking the pot–and moved it to a new place in the back yard.

Later in the day, she had a Zoom yoga class and then visited the fabric store in preparation for a reupholstery job. Did she then cook herself a gourmet dinner? No. She had some leftovers and they were fine.

Saturday, April 20th

E went out to buy some candytuft (Iberus) to go into her newly vacant pot. She went to Shonnard’s because she heard that they were having some kind of open house. But she was in for a disappointment. First off, they no candytuft in stock and the sales person actually laughed at her for asking! Even worse, the refreshments–at least at first glance–consisted of just one small dish of paper-wrapped chewy taffy! Not her favorite, not even tolerable. Fortunately E kept on searching and eventually found a dish of Hershey’s Kisses, which she thought were a marked improvement. Still, is that all you can do for open house treats? Ridiculous. Ah, but on the other hand, they had some pretty little blue pots at 50% off. So the trip was not totally wasted.

M departed Lakeview and found his way to an area in the extreme northeast corner of California called Surprise Valley. The valley is about 50 miles long and ranges from four to ten miles wide. It runs north and south between the Warner Range in California and the Hays Canyon Range in Nevada. On the map below the white lines are state borders: California is to the left, Nevada to the right, and Oregon above.

When M passed through, the water level in the lakes was higher than in this satellite photo. Do you see that white oval shaped alkali flat southeast of Cedarville? And the wide land bridge that separates Upper Alkali Lake from Middle Alkali Lake? M didn’t see either one of those; he just saw a long unbroken stretch of water. If he came back in another time of year, however, he’d probably see much less water. By August, maybe, a person would able to drive east from Cedarville straight across the dry lake bed and find the road to Vya, Nevada.

In its heyday, a hundred and some odd years ago, the valley was home to a thousand or more people. A number of buildings remain from that era, including these substantial looking school buildings.

A lively history of Surprise Valley schools written in 1996 mentions that the Fort Bidwell School was built of dressed native stone and was supposed to last “forever.” Both the Lake City and Fort Bidwell schools are now closed, but the buildings are still standing tall and sturdy at the age of roughly 105. The very first high school to be built in the valley was Cedarville Union High, which opened in 1904. Presumably it was not built to last ‘forever’ as it burned to the ground in 1935.

After touring Surprise Valley, M crossed into Nevada and continued south to the town of Gerlach at the lower end of the Black Rock Desert. This area is home to Burning Man, a week-long party attended by upwards of 75,000 people each year. The Black Rock Desert is a fifty mile long alkali flat, which is barren and featureless until the Burning Man invasion. It takes a month to clean up after Burning Man, but during that month every trace of the party is removed. M can testify that in April of 2024 it looked as barren and featureless as ever.

From Gerlach M headed east into a seriously empty part of the Nevada, as in no towns, no rest areas, no campgrounds, no nothin’. But he did see some wild horses and one speedy antelope that seemed to be challenging him to a race.

There were no paved roads, but many of the gravel roads were in fantastic condition, having just received their once-a-year, post-winter grading. After only a few hours heading east M found the scattered remains of a place called Sulphur that had once been a railroad town. A sign pointed toward something called Rosebud Spring ten miles away. That sounded like a good place to camp, so off he went.

Sunday, April 21st

Today E worked on chores and on her sewing projects–a cushion and a bathroom curtain. Then, as a reward, she went to another nursery in search of candytuft. As it happened, she had a quite different experience. Besides having lots of candytuft available, Garland nursery had their own party going and treats galore.

M breakfasted on a two-day-old chocolate ginger scone from Bodhi’s Bakery, a fine establishment located about 450 miles away from his current location. Then he packed up and continued south and east in the general direction of Imlay, Nevada. After an hour or so he came to a place where he could see that the road was leading him toward a body of water.

His map identified it as Rye Patch reservoir. Just for a change, this lake contains fresh water and has an outlet. It owes its existence to a dam on the Humboldt River. The Humboldt arises in the mountains of northeastern Nevada and flows southwest for some three hundred miles. This being the Great Basin, there is nowhere for it to flow out and it never finds its way to an ocean. Instead, it disappears into a large wetland area called The Humboldt Sink and is never seen again. At this time of year the Humboldt runs pretty high. Here’s what it looked like when M finally reached it.

As it passed through Nevada in the 1840’s, the original California Trail followed alongside the Humboldt for a few hundred miles. The old route is still passable in many places, passable that is, for four-wheel-drive vehicles piloted by determined and perhaps mildly masochistic drivers. M drove the Trail for ten miles at a place where the old route was still in occasional use by ranch traffic. It took about an hour to go the ten miles. Oddly enough, there was no other traffic of any kind. It seems that the overwhelming majority of drivers who travel through the area prefer to use I-80, which parallels the route about fifteen miles to the south. Why this should be so is such a mystery. M suspects that it has something to do with people wanting to get somewhere. (In one of his books Edward Abbey gave his idea of what constitutes a good road. Does anyone remember it? Was the book Desert Solitaire?)

Monday, April 22nd

E’s assignment for today included installing her new candytuft into its pot and remembering to take out the garbage. (This last is a chore that E is normally reluctant to do because M seems to enjoy it so much.) She then went out to dinner with H at the Spaghetti Factory.

Having spent the night at a motel in Winnemucca, M set off north toward the wilds of southeastern Oregon. He had planned to camp somewhere up there, but was now wavering. Night time temperatures were predicted to be below freezing, which didn’t seem all that pleasant. He ended up exploring some nice country in the Cow Creek area and then moving on to another motel in the town of Ontario, Oregon.

Tuesday, April 23rd

M’s hotel in Ontario turned out to be a Red Lion on the Idaho side of the border. M had a light supper and then went to the Dairy Queen down the road for a more substantial dessert. In the morning he got up at 7:15, had a quick breakfast and was on the road by 7:45. He made pretty good time, churning along Highway 20 past the Oregon onion fields. In fact he went so fast that by the time an hour had passed, it was still only 7:45.

Thanks to this early start M got back to Corvallis at 3:30 or so and found E slaving away in the back garden, filling up those pretty new pots that she got from Shonnard’s. For dinner they had Amy’s frozen dinners and hybrid margaritas. Very fine.

Wednesday, April 24th

M spent all day cleaning up the camping stuff, including hosing down a bunch of gear that had gotten massively dusty. And then of course there was the truck itself, which needed cleaning both inside and out. And the garage had to be cleaned up because the solar installers were coming…

E did some critical grocery shopping and made other preparations for tomorrow’s meeting of the Lemon Meringue Pie Society, which she is hosting. For one thing, she mixed up a batch of piecrust. She’ll roll it out tomorrow and use it to make a pie, a pie which is not destined to be lemon meringue. (!)

Thursday, April 25th

After a long spell of mostly dry weather, the rains have made a return, a welcome one as far as the yard is concerned, but perhaps not so pleasing to the guy mounting the solar panels on the garage roof. The installation is supposed to be finished today or tomorrow; the rain is supposed to stay on several days longer.

M went out for an eye appointment in the morning and when he returned was treated to an empty house smelling of just baked cherry pie. E had gone to BBB class, trusting that Goldilocks would not come by. The solar installers were finished by 3:30. A few more steps remain before the panels can go online.

The meeting of the Lemon Meringue Pie Society began at 5:00. It went well and everyone seemed to like E’s cherry pie. But this variation from the lemon meringue tradition inspired one member–the rational one–to propose changing the name of the group to something more general. This suggestion was dismissed immediately with a resounding chorus of negatives. Make no mistake, this is a rowdy crew.

Friday, April 26th

We spent the day prepping for our trip to Joshua Tree. Our plane leaves tomorrow at 7:00 am, so we’ll have to be out of here before 5:00 am. Who planned this trip?