Meandering on the Way — April 19 to 27, 2025

Saturday, April 19th

We are now obsessing over a horrible jigsaw puzzle. We are so “grateful” to the east coast “friends” who passed it along to us. You know who you are.

Sunday, April 20th

We celebrated Easter Sunday by taking the red car over to Newport for brunch. Very nice weather, partly sunny with temps in the 50s. Newport seemed very uncrowded. Lunch included an interesting dessert:

We shared one.

After lunch we went over to the site of the original Yaquina Bay lighthouse, a wooden structure built in 1871 on the north side of the entrance to Yaquina Bay. It was used for only three years before being replaced by the Yaquina Head Lighthouse, which was built on higher ground farther north. The old lighthouse is closed for restoration these days, but there’s a nice little park there and a path down to the beach across some old dunes.

Here’s a view from the parking lot looking southwest. Beyond the dunes, you can see the north and south jetties that extend out from the mouth of the bay. In the past nine years, seven lives have been lost crossing the bar.
This view to the southeast shows a portion of the iconic Yaquina Bay Bridge. Just beyond that lies another important local landmark–the Rogue brewery.

From the parking lot we took a trail downward toward the dunes. It’s an old route, originally constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression.

We descended these charming old stairs and continued onward…
,,,until we found the path uncharmingly flooded by seasonal rains.

After detouring around the water, we got down to the level of the dunes, and then climbed up to the top of one. There we found some purple flowers that E’s phone identified as the blossoms of a leguminous plant called Sea Pea, Lathyrous japonicas.

Tuesday, April 22nd

Today E got back to work helping with reading at the bilingual elementary school. She missed last Tuesday due to cataract surgery. Today, while she was working with a fourth grader, a program staffer came around and gave the boy a little sticker. When the staffer had gone, E asked the boy what the sticker was for. He said it was a reward for doing his reading. E said that she was also doing her reading and asked why she didn’t also get a sticker. The boy thought for a minute and then said, “I think it’s because you’re old. You’re still beautiful though.” Eve says that the boy is in fact not greatly interested in reading, but she predicts a bright future for him anyway.

While E was being responsible, M took off on a joyride, making his way up to Portland and then heading east up I-84 through the Columbia Gorge, where he spent the night at the Cousins Hotel in The Dalles.

Wednesday, April 23rd

In the morning M had to go another forty miles up the freeway before finally turning south at Blalock. Whew. Finally the real driving could really begin.

Blalock Canyon Road is a narrow, worn looking squiggle of pavement with no shoulders, lots of curves, good visibility, and no traffic whatever–a nice warmup for a day of driving. The road ends at a T-junction and M turned left onto Cedar Springs Lane, where he had a chance to slow down and do a little 21st Century sightseeing.

Did he see any cedar trees or springs? Uh…no. Those must be located on some other part of Cedar Springs Lane. What he did see, on his left, was the southern edge of a very large facility called Chemical Waste Management of the Northwest. Now, back In the good old days, if you had some chemical waste that you wanted to get rid of, you could just truck it to the nearest river and dump it in, preferably on a moonless night. But there’s less of that now. Instead, “customers in the states of Washington, Oregon, Montana, Idaho, Utah, Wyoming, Hawaii, Alaska and provinces of Western Canada” can call CWMNW to make their toxic waste go away. Here are a few pages from the brochure. It makes for interesting reading.

We might all wish that when CWMNW collects or accepts chemical waste, the material would then go to some state-of-the-art processing plant where it would be detoxified and rendered harmless. Ho-ho-ho. Unfortunately, it appears that no one really knows how to do that. But if toxic materials are not going away, then they will have to be permanently stored, stored in such a way, hopefully, as to minimize the hazard. And that, of course, is the purpose of the CWMNW site near Arlington, Oregon. The facility is just a large, specially constructed landfill complex. Most of it is around behind a hill, so you can’t see much, but there is a diagram on their web site. Even better, you can use the navigation app on your phone to bring up satellite photos of the place. From the road he was on, M only saw the main entrance, a railroad siding, and a quarter-mile long field filled with a hundred or so containers. Most of these were the standard metal shipping containers, but there were also some other things that looked like giant dark green bins with high mounded covers held down by green cables. Weird.

After that excitement, as he neared the junction of Cedar Springs Lane and Oregon Hwy 19, M came to another kind of place that didn’t exist in the good old days: a large wind power construction and maintenance facility. You know, the kind of place where you see very large, blindingly white support columns lying on their sides waiting for some giant to pick them up and plant them somewhere.

There’s a lot of wind in the Columbia Gorge and large numbers of turbines have been built to take advantage.

Moving along down OR 19, M rapidly left the both the clean energy and the dirty chemicals behind. Once you get farther away from the gorge, there are miles and miles of mostly treeless country, with lots of ranch land and wheat fields, not so many houses, and not so many towns. The roads are mostly paved now, but might not have been when they were originally laid down 75 or 125 years ago. They tend to follow the contours of the land more than our modern roads do. And the land has a lot of contour to it: up hill and down dale, with sudden little folds into which to drop and plenty of little ridges over which to climb. Very little traffic. Jaguar country.

After a bit M turned off OR 19 and drove east on OR 206, then went south again on OR 207. He passed through the towns of Hardman and Spray, and soon entered a somewhat more mountainous area. The road took him around the southern edge of Hoogie Doogie Mountain*, and eventually to a bare bones state park called Mule Shoe Recreation Area, which lies upon the banks of the John Day River. There he found some shade and ate his lunch.

The view upriver from Mule Shoe

After lunch came another 75 scenic and moderately entertaining miles along US 26 to the town of Prineville. Prineville used to be a nice little place, famous only for being the birthplace of the Les Schwab tire empire. Nowadays, it’s a cloud server town. Facebook (Meta) has nine data centers there, each about twice the size of a Walmart. Apple has six big data centers. We do not have exact information about how much data can be stored in these centers, but total capacity is likely to be many petabytes. (A petabyte is roughly one billion megabytes, or 1,024 gigabytes.) The data centers provide around 1,000 jobs, some of which must pay pretty well, given the number of big new houses littering the mountainsides.

Thursday, April 24th

Tertulia with R and J this morning at Coffee Culture. R talked a little about the impact on OSU caused by the recent reduction in federal funding for scientific research. He noted that in past years federal research proposals would be rejected if they did not include a section about how the project would contribute to the societal goals of diversity, equity and inclusion. These days, of course, proposals will be rejected if they do include any mention of DEI.

Back in our living room on Oak Avenue, we have finally finished that jigsaw puzzle. It seemed awfully hard, but finally yielded to a “loaf by loaf” strategy.

Friday, April 25th

Lunch today with our old friend J.

Saturday, April 26th

Errands and garden work today.

The camus are blooming. Seems to be a great year for them.
And someone has been leaving peanuts out for the jays.

Sunday, April 27th

Pretty busy day. For breakfast we suffered through plain croissants–no chocolate. While we were out for a walk we noticed that our neighbors were having a plant sale. We went over to check it out and ended up buying a half dozen Ajuga starts. We also got the chance to tour their backyard, a wonderful place of beauty and repose.

After that M got to work in our own backyard while E took off on a joyride to yoga class at her friend L’s studio out in the country.

Later on we went to a dinner put on by the Corvallis Sister Cities program. Corvallis has two sister cities, one of which is Gondar, the one-time capital of the Ethiopian Empire. Since 2005 the CSC-Gondar group has worked with a number of NGO partners to support the city in the areas of education, at-risk children, nutrition, safe drinking water, reforestation, and watershed management. The dinner consisted of Ethiopian food, which as some of you may know, does not involve the use of knives, forks or spoons. So there we were, 175 Corvallians, all trying to figure out the best way to pick up our food by squeezing it between the layers of a folded piece of injera bread. Fortunately, generous supplies of napkins were provided. Injera is a soft, spongy flatbread. It is made from Teff flour and is thus gluten free. We also saw a display about how Ethiopian coffee is made and served. It seems that Ethiopians drink a lot of coffee.

At a traditional Ethiopian coffee drinking ceremony, guests can expect to drink three small cups of coffee. The first cup is called abol, the second is called tona and the third baraka. Baraka means blessing, and signifies the host’s wish to bless the guests. To refuse the third cup would be considered extremely rude. Let’s all of us remember that, just in case.

*If anyone recognizes the language of the Hoogie Doogie Mountain web site, please let us know in the comments.

Meandering on the Way — April 1 to 13, 2025

Tuesday, April 1st

So…here we are back in our house again. There’s definitely more space here than in that mini-apartment in Madrid. Wow. And speaking of space, the refrigerator here is empty. Can we survive on olives, pickles and ketchup? Probably not. We’re really missing that unopened bag of potato chips that we left behind in Madrid. Someone must have thought it was impractical to pack potato chips into an already bulging suitcase. We did bring some nuts from the plane, didn’t we? They must be here somewhere…

Outside, the yard is…uh…somewhat overgrown. Some of that grass is ten inches high. Makes the house look like it’s been abandoned. The neighbors can’t be too thrilled.

Wednesday, April 2nd

A little damp, but not really raining much. In the back yard, there is very little trace of the flowers that bloomed while we were gone. The crocuses have totally disappeared. The hyacinths are still standing, but their blossoms are all kaput. T sent is a couple of photos a few weeks back; otherwise we would have missed them both completely.

Some other flowers, however, were nice enough to wait until we got back: flowering currant, dwarf iris and tulips.

Thursday/Friday, April 3rd/4th

Better weather. It turns out that there were two big wind storms while we were gone. Lots of limbs came down into our front yard. A neighbor kindly removed some of the larger ones so as to make the house look a little less deserted. The grass really does need serious attention. M is working on it.

Saturday, April 5th

Good weather. M has finished the first round of lawn mowing. E is getting over a cold and is still taking antibiotics for an ear infection. The antibiotic cannot be taken with dairy, so E is having almond milk in her morning coffee. She is not thrilled.

Sunday, April 6th

E tried a new yoga class out at L’s house. She liked it very much.

Monday, April 7th

J and L from Utah arrived today for a visit. They’ve been visiting J’s daughters in Idaho and Washington. L is still working as a wrangler at a horse ranch and riding school. J is between construction projects. In theory he is debating about whether to take on a new project or to retire. No one is betting he will retire.

Tuesday, April 8th

We took J and L on a hike today over at The Crestmont Land Trust acreage near Cardwell Hill. We walked through intermittent rain, but the area was very lovely. We saw lots of that bright yellow green that only comes in early spring. Here and there we’d see a mountain cherry in bloom. For contrast, there was the dark green of the fir covered hills to the south. There are also a lot of oaks in the area. They are still leafless, so what you see now are thriving colonies of furry moss and papery lichens.

We also found a large eruption of fawn lilies, more of them in one place that we had ever seen before.

There were dozens spread out on the south side of the road…
…and a couple dozen more climbing the bank on the north side.

In the evening J and L helped us start a puzzle.

Wednesday, April 9th

J and L left this morning, just as we started on the hardest parts of the puzzle. They’re no dummies.

Thursday, April 10th

M did more lawn mowing today. Yes, we know, he just did that five days ago. Five days can be a long time in the spring.

We had dinner at B and B’s place. One of the B’s cooked thick chunks of halibut that the other B had caught on a fishing trip to Alaska. This was followed by lemon meringue pie! What a feast.

When we got home, we were drawn back into the puzzle. By 11:00 or so, it was done.

Friday, April 11th

We had our friend H over for dinner. She brought dessert: strawberries, wafer cookies and dulce de leche flavored spreadable caramel made with water buffalo milk. She also told us about the treatment she’s been getting to cure her occasional vertigo. Apparently it involves having your head twisted around at a certain angle, so as to revitalize the crystals of the inner ear. H is a great dinner guest.

Today’s quiz question: Which of the following was the country of origin of our dulce de leche water buffalo milk spreadable caramel? A. Cambodia B. Canada C. Colombia (Answer down a ways.)

Saturday, April 12th

Sunny weather today, with at least two more sunny days forecast. Okay! M went over the storage place and unwrapped the Jaguar. We drove up to Burgerville in Monmouth for lunch. Since the temperature was only 55 degrees, we left the top up. After lunch the temperature was up to 58, so we took the top down and went home the long way via Elkins Road and Airlie.

The tulips are still doing well out back. Our backyard camera has detected several incidences of a woman sneaking in and stealing some of the nicer blooms. Some of these have made it into the house.

Sunday, April 13th

A quiet day. We had our traditional Sunday breakfast of pain au chocolate and coffee. Later in the day, that woman snuck into our back yard again, this time making off with most of our rhubarb. It appears that a pie is in the offing. I can smell it now.

Answer to the Quiz: How the heck should we know? Do you know how tiny the print is on a tub of water buffalo spreadable caramel? Well…finally we dug out a strong magnifier; it’s from Colombia.

Meandering on the Way — March 25 to March 31, 2025

Tuesday, March 25th

We went to the Palace Hotel for lunch today, at the invitation of E’s godson Pedro, an architect who works at the hotel. A large part of his job is involved with the ongoing renovation/restoration of the hotel, which was built in 1912. Two hotels were constructed in Madrid that year—the Palace and the Ritz. They were built near each other in a neighborhood close to the Prado art museum, each vying to be more luxurious than the other. This competition continues today; the current restoration of the Palace will cost about one hundred million dollars. When it is complete, the Palace will be upbranded from Marriott/Westin to Marriott Luxury Collection.

On the main floor there are some 17th century tapestries that were part of the original 1912 decor. You can see part of one of them in the photo below. They have all been recently restored and look amazing.

The restaurant in the picture is called The Cupola and if you look up at the ceiling, you can see why. The dome is the original construction from 1912, but it too has just been restored, having been entirely disassembled with each individual piece of glass being either cleaned or replaced.

Marga, Pedro, E and M

The main entrance has also been restored to be just as it was in 1912, as has the reception lobby just inside. Lots of marble in there.

The library was empty, which was nice because it meant that Pedro could give us a quiet look around.

On the wall is a framed bar napkin dating from the 1930’s. The figures were drawn by Salvador Dali; the poem is by Federico Garcia Lorca. It reads: Alfonso doce de plata/vuela en la moneda blanca/De corcho y de hoja lata/Mi cuerno de la abundancia/Me gasté en el bar del Palace/Mis monedillas de agua.

Wednesday, March 26th

We visited Aranjuez today, a town that was first established some five hundred years ago as the site of a summer palace. Today it is a town of 60,000, but until 1752, only members of the royal family were allowed to live there. There’s a palace, of course, and several huge courtyards. The main attractions are the extensive gardens, the biggest of which is the Island Garden—which is partially enclosed by a bend in the Tajo river and features dozens of big old trees as well as smaller plantings.

We had hoped to arrive early, but as it happened we didn’t arrive until…lunchtime! So we had the menu del día at a restaurant outside the palace grounds. It was the traditional kind of place with heavy white tablecloths and complementary rolls which the waiter tosses, not onto your starter plate, but just onto the tablecloth next to you. Good.

Another attraction of the site is the Museo de Falúas Reales. The Spanish word ‘falúa’ translates to ‘barge’ but these are recreational barges, not cargo carriers, and they have their own propulsion system—a bunch of guys pulling heavy oars. The Tajo river runs past the Aranjuez palace and long ago a weir was built to create a one-kilometer-long stretch of calm water. It seems that in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries it was fashionable for kings to have nice boats that they could go float around in whenever they felt like it. They weren’t for travel, just for fun. In England, Henry the Eighth had one for toddling around on the Thames. For the Spanish kings, Aranjuez was the favorite place to go barging and the museum holds five well-restored barges from the era.

It was a long walk to the see the barges, a walk which took us through many acres of royal fields and fruit trees.

This is the smallest of the barges on display. To our eyes, it was also the prettiest. It’s built of mahogany.
This was the oldest barge…and pretty much the ugliest.

Once we’d finished with the barge museum, it was time to get back to the train station and return to Madrid. The train line between Madrid and Aranjuez is a little bit special. It was completed in 1851 and was just the second rail line ever built in Spain. So why wasn’t it the first one? Something else was more important than taking the king to his boats?

Thursday, March 27th

Finally made it to the Thyssen Bornemisza museum today. Wonderful place. Here are some things we noticed.

Autumn by Frederic Church. 1875. The Thyssen has a whole room full of paintings from the Hudson River School .
Here’s another American scene: New York Street with Moon by Georgia O’Keefe
The Viaduct by Paul Delvaux, 1963. Delvaux was a Belgian painter who is said to have been obsessed with nudes, trains, nightfall, hanging lights, and mirrors. This one hits four of the five.

Friday, March 28th

Today our friend M-HP met us in the city at Moncloa and we rode the bus out to Galapagar-La Navata, the northern suburb where he lives. We had lunch at a restaurant called Tablao and then went with him to pick up his two granddaughters from school. The girls are ten and twelve, so they both attend the same colegio. It was interesting to see how the parents came to pick up their kids. In Corvallis, we just have long lines of cars in which drivers wait patiently for the kids to come out and hop in. But at this school, the parents park their cars, get out, and walk over to the main gate, which is closed at that point and watched over by a guard. Then, about five minutes before school lets out, the guard opens the gate and the parents go into the school grounds and take up position near whatever door they know their kids will exit from. In our case, we waited in the back of the school by the playground…

…which had quite a nice view by the way

When M-HP’s granddaughters came out, the five of us—in a throng of other parents and kids—walked back to the front of the school and exited through the same gate that we had entered.

We all went to the kids’ house and the girls had a little snack that Grandpa had bought them at the restaurant. E particularly enjoyed seeing the girls, as they are the granddaughters of her friend Margie who passed away two years ago. E was touched that the older girl told her that when she grows up she wants to be an English teacher “like Grandma.”

Saturday, March 29th

Our stay here is almost over. Today we met our friends L&M and M&P in Rivas to say our final goodbyes. Of course this involved another nice meal, this time at an Italian restaurant named Cabiria. Anyone recognize the name? We didn’t, but now we know that the restaurant was named for the main character in the 1957 Fellini film Nights of Cabiria. The decor was quite amusing and artistic.

We were very lucky that it was a sunny day and we spent time before and after the dinner sitting on L&M’s back terrace next to the swimming pool. That’s where we got dessert:

As we said goodbye, we all wondered if this might be the last time we would see each other. Travel gets harder as we age and Corvallis is a long, long way from Madrid.

Sunday, March 30th

This morning E went out to a bakery and got us a couple of fresh chocolate croissants. Clearly, she is well adapted to this environment. After breakfast, the day’s main question was whether all our stuff is going to fit into our suitcases.

Later, with cases mostly packed, we returned to our local restaurant for one last Spanish meal.

Monday, March 31st

We got up at 3:00am this morning and took an Uber to the airport. After checking bags, scanning our VAT refund code, getting through security, and finding our gate, we finally had breakfast around 5:00. By 6:30 we were in the air headed for Amsterdam; by 10:35 we were in another airplane, this one headed over the pole to Portland.

The plane was a KLM 787 configured to have a “Comfort Premium” section that sits just behind first class and in front of economy. The key comfort feature is space–lots of leg room, oodles of foot room and lots of space on both sides. It’s really nice. Our Delta flight to Europe from JFK had also been on a 787 with the same Comfort Premium configuration.

Although our section was toward the front, we were not permitted to use the First Class bathrooms. Of course not! So, from our section, if you wanted to go to the bathroom, you had to push aside a curtain and walk back through the economy section for a ways. That was a weird experience. As soon as you push that curtain aside, the sight before you is appalling. Oh my god, you think, look at these people, the way they’re jammed together. And you know just what it feels like because you’ve been there. And then right after that, you can’t stop yourself from feeling a twinge of superiority because you’re so much better off than those poor souls. And that makes you feel guilty. Why does it have to work this way? What have I done, you ask, to deserve this superior experience? Not that much, really, nothing you can think of offhand.

The weather was clear, but the view out the window was pretty dull, just many hours of featureless Arctic whiteness. Until, suddenly, it wasn’t quite so featureless any more.

As the plane descended into Portland, we both had the same feeling: our long stay in fantasyland was over. We were back in the real world. We got back to Corvallis at around two in the afternoon, twenty hours after that first Uber came to pick us up at Calle Piamonte at 3:00 in the morning. We have more or less survived—we think.