Meandering on the Way

Monday, February 20, 2023

Today it seemed as though we had travelled back through time. Were we looking at the prehistoric cave paintings at Altamira? No, no, not that far back. Did we visit the castle where Columbus made his pitch to Isabella and Ferdinand? No, not that either. We traveled back to a time that for many of us is within living memory. We visited a travel agency.

And you know what? It was really busy. There were six agents working and several more customers waiting for a turn. When you walked in, you had to take a number. Our number was R74. After a minute or two, we noticed that there was a big board that showed which numbers were being currently served. Oh good, now maybe we could get some idea of how long we might have to wait. Or could we? The number that had just been called was K42. Hmm. The next customers called had number M60. Hmm. But wait, those particular people had come in right before we had! Our spirits rose. We had to be getting close. But when the next number was called, it was J03. Our spirits fell. But, as it happened, J03 was a no show. And the next number was ours.

Our agent was Alejandra, a young Spanish-Venezuelan woman whose family lives in Florida. She was great, although her computer system was really slow. But it was good enough so that we could make all the basic arrangements for our late March travels to France, Switzerland and Germany. Good!

By the way, if you’re thinking that most of the customers in the travel agency were older people…you’d be right.

Tuesday, February 21, 2023

Today we took the train north and had another nice day with M and M. First we did a walk along the river and then had a nice meal at their place. M made merluza (hake) and it was delicious. (We don’t get hake in Corvallis, which is a shame.) M’s merluza recipe involves a sauce which consists of tomato sauce, sweet red pepper and mayonnaise. We could have just dipped fresh bread into the sauce and even without the fish we would have eaten pretty darn well.

Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Today we made a visit to the Gran Cafe de Gijón. It’s a Madrid landmark and as one writer puts it, es uno de los Cafés más prestigiosos del mundo. It was established in 1888 by a man named Gumersindo Garcia. He was from the northern coast of Spain and he named his new cafe after his hometown of Gijón. Over the years it developed a reputation as a literary and cultural gathering place and was frequented by several generations of celebrated Spanish writers and artists. In her day, Mata Hari came to the Cafe Gijón, as did Hemingway during his time in Spain. But we did not visit the cafe to imbibe the exalted literary atmosphere. No. We visited because of another, even more important figure who was also connected with the Cafe Gijón. In the early seventies E herself taught classes in a building two doors down. Every day, at around 11:00, she would take her coffee break in the nearest cafe. She doesn’t remember meeting any geniuses there, but she does remember the pastries. They were good.

E recognized the Gijón interior right away. After a bit M noticed that the Gijón still had a cigarette vending machine. When he pointed it out, E said, “Oh, that’s what’s really different, this room used to be full of smoke.”

When M zoomed way in on this picture, he could make out the names of the cigarette brands currently on offer. As a former smoker he found them interesting. He saw Fortuna, a brand that he smoked when he lived in Barcelona, and a few unfamiliar brands such as Nobel and West. But the great majority were old American brands: Lucky Strikes, Marlboro, Chesterfield, L&M, Winston, and Camel. Chesterfield? Seriously? Back in the day, Chesterfields were the original coffin nails—long, fat and unfiltered.

Thursday, February 23

We got up really early today, had a quick bite for breakfast, then got a taxi to the train station at 6:15. E’s friend, another of the M’s, was taking us on a day trip to see the city of Leon, which is in the northwest of Spain. Leon is three hours from Madrid by car, but just two hours by high speed train. In our case, the train got us to the outskirts of Leon real fast, but then came to a halt. There were some issues to resolve before we could actually get into the station, 45 minutes worth.

Eventually we got off the train and began walking into the center of town. It turns out that Leon is a really lovely city. It was quite cold, so once we got to the center we were happy to drop into a cafe for cafe con leche and some little do-nuts called buñuelos. Then we were off to see the Leon Cathedral—which is awesome.

Another place we visited was the Casa Botines, which was designed and built by Antonio Gaudi between 1891 and 1894. Gaudi is most famous for the design of the Sagrada Familia and other buildings in Barcelona. Casa Botines is one of only three of his creations that were built outside his home region. Now a museum, it was originally designed as a mixed use building. The ground floor housed the family’s textile business while the Botines family lived on the top four floors.

A little after 1:00 we stopped for lunch at a cafe/restaurant where a member of M’s family worked as a cook in times gone by. The dining room didn’t open till 1:30; we had a glass of wine while we waited. The barman also helped us warm up with some little cups of hot fish broth on the house.

We also had a tour of the Basilica of San Isidoro, a religious building whose history dates back to the early tenth century when a Christian church was built over the ruins an ancient Roman temple to the god Mercury. That church was destroyed in the middle of the tenth century by invading Arabs. A new Christian church was built just a few decades later at the beginning of the 11th century. Parts of this church still exist and our tour guide helped us to see the difference between those oldest parts and the many later additions.

In the book room of the basilica we saw hundreds of medieval era books, the oldest dating back to the 7th century. Another room, called the Pantheon of Kings, shows wall art from the 12th century. And, yes, the Holy Grail is also here, the very cup that Jesus drank from at the last supper, more than two thousand years ago. Wow. But how do they know for sure that this is the one? And aren’t there also more than a hundred other places in Europe that claim to have the Holy Grail? Well, yes. But hey, maybe more than one cup was used during that meal. Anyway, the one here is technically known as the Chalice of Doña Urraca. It has definitely been in Leon for a thousand years; but during the thousand years before that, the story is a little sketchy.

We stopped briefly in another religious museum so that M could say hello to an artifact from her personal history: the old wooden confessional from the parish church of her childhood.

After the museums, we spent some time having hot chocolate and churros at the Parador, the Hostal San Marcos. Then we walked back to the train station and caught another fast train home. It was late by then, so there we were rolling along at 150 miles an hour through the darkness, letting someone else drive, wearing no seatbelts, and facing backwards.

Friday, February 24

Fresh raspberries for breakfast today. From Morocco. Awesome. And then a nice restful day. Some grocery shopping in the morning. Later E went to the papelería and got us an actual paper map of Madrid. She’s busy working back and forth between what she sees now and the host of places and memories that rise up out of the past.

Saturday, February 25

Two days in a row with nothing major on the schedule. Nice. We did take a walk down to the nearest plaza to get a few essentials: pastry treats for our traditional Sunday breakfast and a bottle of champagne for some occasion TBA. It was about 1:00 PM on a cold, sunny day and it seemed like everybody was out and about. Despite the temperature, the cafes had all their outdoor tables out and just about all of them were full. Twelve o’clock to 1:00ish is the time for the aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink usually served with a little snack. We found a table outside a place called Bar 29 and ordered two small beers. They came with a complementary dish of green olives. By around 1:30 the tables started emptying out as people returned home to get ready for their midday meal. We headed home for the same reason.

Sunday, February 26

Today, we went to a birthday celebration at M and M’s place up north. There were two birthday honorees: M and M’s daughter E and our very own E. Dinner featured two rice dishes: a yellow one called arroz a banda and another that they call black rice. Here’s a photo of the latter.

After dinner there were cupcakes made by L and C, with help from their grandma, and also grandma’s wonderful pineapple upside down cake. There was candle lighting and Happy Birthday singing—in English.

Monday, February 13

7:30: Breakfast and final packing. 8:30: Metro to Chamartin Station. 9:00-9:45: Locate car rental place, sign out VW Golf, find our way back to our neighborhood, find parking place. Whew! 10:00: Have small second breakfast. 10:20: Wheel luggage down the block to parking place, depart for the Basque Country, M driving, Siri giving directions, E reminding M to stop at stoplights. 10:38: Notice that we are finally out of Madrid and on the freeway north. Whew!

By 1:00 PM we were more than half way to our destination, but our energy was flagging. We decided to stop in the next little town, which happened to be Lerma. Couldn’t find a parking place at first, had to go down a side street.

We went to small cafe and had coffee and bizcocho, a kind of pound cake. They said it was de la casa and it was good. We also went into a little supermarket, where E found some face cream that she’d been looking for.

Fifty miles later we stopped for gas near the town of Mondragón. By this time we were officially in the Basque country, much of which seems to be quite mountainous. We didn’t go over or around any mountains, though, we went straight through them. We’ve never seen so many tunnels, at least a dozen.

It’s close to 3:00 by the time we reach our destination, the town of Hondarribia in the extreme northeast corner of Spain, just a few miles from the French border. The border makes a political separation between the French and Spanish parts of the Basque Country; as far as language and culture are concerned, the two parts are much the same.

Our hotel is the Parador Hondarribia, which has been created within the walls of a castle fortress whose history goes back to the 12th Century. The castle was built at the top of a hill overlooking the harbor. We could see two or three (hundred) sailboats moored just across from us.

Tuesday, February 14

Early in the morning we woke up and looked out the east facing window of our room. Some lights were still on in the town, but things were definitely happening in the east. And speaking of things to the east of us, we’re pretty sure that mountain is in France.

The castle walls are pretty thick, close to three feet, so the windows in our room look like this:

We spent the morning exploring the area around the castle, which seems to be the oldest part of the city.

In the afternoon, we got back in the Golf and drove to San Sebastián, a much larger Basque city just twenty miles away. En route we took a small detour up to the top of another hill to see the Fuerte Guadalupe, an early 20th Century fortress. It turned out to be pretty strange looking. It appears to have been mostly underground and is now long abandoned, so it just looks like a bunch of grassy mounds.

We found that downtown San Sebastián is lovely, but a challenge to drive around in if you’re a stranger. As recommended by our friend M, we had coffee at the Hotel Maria Cristina, a lovely palace-like building in the central area of the city. The coffees were five euros apiece, but the setting was pretty nice.

Wednesday, February 15

Breakfast is served in shifts here at the Parador, sort of like on the train. Our scheduled time was 8:15. Did we make it on time? You bet we did. And what a breakfast—fruits, fresh juice, cheeses, baked goods and cold cuts of all descriptions, eggs or omelets if you want them. It was a challenge, but we did our best.

So that was one major goal accomplished. Next we had to get ready to check out and move on to the next segment of our journey. Since the next leg was only 70 or 80 miles, it promised to be a pretty easy day. We had time to take a few photos of the hotel before we left.

We left Hondarribia around 11:00 and headed southwest toward a different part of the Basque Country. On the way, we took a side trip to what the map said was a nature park. It turned out to be way up high in the mountains, and the narrow road up to it had some of the sharpest hairpin curves that we could remember. There was snow up there, but fortunately not too much.

We didn’t stay long, though it would have been a really nice place to hike had we been prepared for it. But we were trying to take it easy, so we made our way down the mountain and back onto the main road. By 2:00, we were checking into our next hotel, the Parador Argomaniz, which is in the southern part of the Basque Country near the city of Vitoria-Gastiez.

Thursday, February 16

Clearly, we’ve come out of the mountains and away from the ocean. The weather here is cooler than on the coast, but still lovely—in a late winter/early spring kind of way.

After breakfast, we set off on another ridiculously complicated project, a visit to Bilbao. Bilbao is the capital of the Basque Country and by all accounts it is a city worth seeing. And since it is only about an hour’s drive north of Vitoria, we thought we’d run up there to see the Guggenheim and maybe have some lunch. Easy as pie.

(But what exactly does that expression mean? Easy as eating a pie? Easy as making a pie? Easy as picking the berries to make the pie? Easy as planting some wheat and harvesting the grain to grind some flour to make the crust? We’re not sure.)

Anyway, we made it into the center of Bilbao, the famous and very beautiful Plaza de Euskadi, and found ourselves a parking place not too many levels underground. Back above ground, we went into the Museo de Bellas Artes. Entrance was free and the art was arranged so that in each exhibition room there was a mixture of old art and new. We found several things of both sorts that we liked. Then we went down the street to the see the Guggenheim—Frank Gehry’s mishmash architectural masterpiece.

What a building.

The featured artist was Joan Miro. That seemed worth a look, so we paid our seven euros each and went inside.

Eventually, enough was enough. We went out through the gift shop—where M bought a Kandinsky mousepad and E got some socks—and then went to a cafe for a snack. It was warm in Bilbao, perfect weather for sitting outside, especially if you were wearing sun block, which of course M was not…

Next we located our car, extricated it from the underworld, and made the drive back to Argomaniz. We ended the day with dinner in the hotel cafe and a walk around the grounds to look at the stars.

Friday, February 17

Today was travel day and also use the car while you can day. We left Argomaniz around 10:00 and got back to Madrid at 2:00. At that point, instead of going straight to our apartment, we stopped at a shopping center called Gran Vía. There we ate lunch. One floor of the mall was a little bit like a food court, so E went to Rodilla and got a tuna salad that came with a crustless sandwich and M went to Bosforos and got a chicken kebab plate. Then we met up and shared a table. It was pretty nice.

Then we did our grocery shopping in the big supermarket, trying to focus on heavy items that are harder to carry on our walks to and from our local market. It seemed like it would be a lot easier to just load everything into the car. Of course when we got home, we still had the major job of hauling both food and luggage from parking place to apartment. (We will spare you the details of how all that works. Suffice to say that the process involves four different keys.) Once we had everything inside, we breathed a sigh of relief and sat down for a short break. Then it was time to go out again and return the rental car at the train station. That done, we took the Metro home.

So there we were sitting on our couch with lots of food on hand but both too tired to make dinner. But actually that didn’t matter. After a Parador breakfast and a mall lunch, neither of us was too hungry. So we sat down in our dining nook with wine, a banana, peanuts, and a cookie or two. We then watched an old James Garner movie on TV. It was in Spanish and—for those who might have trouble understanding spoken Spanish—it also had Spanish subtitles. It was fine.

Saturday, February 18, 2023

A quiet day today, but we did make a nice discovery in our local shopping area. We went into the Herbolaria—a small place packed full of organic, eco-friendly items, mostly personal care things. E was delighted to find a couple of things that she was running out of. From there we went to the paper store because E was looking for ribbon to wrap some gifts. It turns out they didn’t carry ribbon, but they offered to just give us some from their own roll that they kept at the counter. E happily accepted about 12 inches. We didn’t think of paying anything. Should we have? Too late now.

Back at home we decided to try and adapt to local rhythms by having a fairly big lunch around 2:00 and planning only a light supper later. E made a green salad dressed with some of our newly purchased vinegar and olive oil. M heated up some Barilla bottled spaghetti sauce and boiled some fresh spinach and cheese ravioli. We also had bread and wine plus a small flan for dessert. In other domestic news, we did laundry, which involves throwing stuff into the washing machine located in a little unheated room off the kitchen, and then setting up the drying rack next to the radiator in the living room.

Sunday, February 19, 2023

Today we had dinner with the C family at Taberna de la Daniella, a restaurant that specializes in something called Cocido Madrileño. MC is a Spanish friend of E’s from the days when they both lived in Chicago. When MC had a baby, who is now a distinguished architect, E became a godmother. She’s been a rather distant godmother over the years, but they’ve always kept in touch. Today we got to see the godson as well as the many of the rest of MC’s extended family, including the youngest generation. It was wonderful for us to get to meet them all. E, playing Santa, had brought enough gifts for everybody.

We’ve had Cocido Madrileño twice now, so maybe we know enough to describe it. First comes a soup course, thin little noodles in a yellowish broth that looks like chicken broth but tastes much more complicated. Then comes a plate of chickpeas served with boiled potatoes, carrots, and cabbage. After that, they bring out a giant platter full of all sorts of meatish things including chicken, ham, sausage, beef, tocino, morcilla and whatever else they have on hand. (Tocino is a kind of salt pork—pretty much all fat—and morcilla is a kind of blood sausage made with rice.) E, of course, skipped all the meat, except for the morcilla, which she has always loved. M liked it too, though he hadn’t expected to.

When we got home, M took a nap while E went out for a stroll in the beautiful weather. She found a sidewalk cafe and ordered an orange soda. Oops! She had forgotten that beverages often come accompanied by a free tidbit of food. This time it was a very small open faced sandwich of Serrano ham. E was still full from lunch and doesn’t usually eat ham, but she couldn’t let it go to waste. It was very good.

Sunday, January 29, 2023

A bright, sunny day. After a long stretch of clouds and fog, suddenly the world is full of light. But we’re busy packing. Our trip starts on Monday and we want to be ready! We’ve been packing for days, which seems ridiculous. Making a list of things to take is not too hard; narrowing it down to what will actually fit in a suitcase is a little harder.

Monday January 30, 2023

Still packing. It’s hard to pack for two months. And it’s not just our clothes and things. There are also all those presents that we need to take. In fact, each day that passes, E finds that she needs one or two more presents. Finally we just give up and leave, whether we have packed correctly or not.

We’re heading up to Portland in a rental car, which turns out to be a Prius with adaptive cruise control, which we have never tried before. M is happy. Once settled in Portland, we have a nice dinner at ParkStone and then go back to the Comfort Inn and set our alarms for 4:00 AM.

Tuesday January 31, 2023

Off we go into the sky, headed for JFK. We’re on Delta again, flying Comfort+ class, which just means more leg room. That’s fine. Our layover in New York is three hours. We depart just as darkness falls. Delta gives us dinner. Not too bad. One dinner option is chicken and one is vegetarian pasta. In the old days, E would have to make a special request for a vegetarian meal and then might or might not have gotten it. We don’t miss that. 

Boarding at JFK was interesting. There were two lines. In one line people had to show a boarding pass for scanning, either a paper one or one on their phone. But in the other line, which we happened to be in, you just showed your face to a scanner and the agent waved you on. Yo! We might have known that it would come to that. But it’s here already?

The flight to Madrid took six and a half hours. M usually can’t sleep on planes, but this time, thanks to chemistry and a kindly supplier, he slept for half the flight. 

Wednesday February 1, 2023

It’s just after 8:00 in the morning and we’re sitting surrounded by our luggage in an airport restaurant breakfasting on cafe cortado and croissants. We’ve landed, shown our passports, and collected our bags. But one thing remains, a formality related to our phones. We must face the dreaded activation of the E-sim. We purchased and installed these a few days ago. M has signed up for a cellular data plan. He won’t be able to make European phone calls, but he’ll have internet. E will have cellular data plus a European phone number, so she can call actual people and talk to them. But not unless we can successfully activate, which can’t be done until you’re in country. A tense moment. Will they work? After a bit of fumbling around…yes!

E then made direct contact with our AirBnb host to set up our arrival time. She also called her friend M who tells us not to take the airport train, but to take the airport Metro line (subway) instead. The Metro took us most of the way to our little apartment. A taxi took us the rest of the way. Soon we were installed and mostly unpacked. Whew. 

That was the end of the easy part.

Thursday February 2, 2023

So our apartment turns out to be in a somewhat weird spot, not weird in a bad way, just a bit different from anywhere we’ve lived before. The immediate area consists mostly of apartment buildings, seven or eight stories high. There is lots of open space, however. The buildings are often arranged around large courtyards with mature trees, most of those now leafless. Our place, for example, is near a fairly busy street, but we are never aware of it because our apartment looks down into the courtyard rather than outward to the larger world. 

Our particular place is on the fourth floor and has three rooms: kitchen, living room, and bedroom. All the rooms are small, but the kitchen is fully functional with oven, cooktop and fridge; the bedroom has a nice large closet; and the living room has…a really tired couch and some interesting artwork. Here’s what our building looks like from the outside. Our place is in the middle of the photo. That air conditioner type thing is just under our living room window. The window to the right, on the rounded part of the building is our kitchen and breakfast nook. The window on the left is the bedroom.

Although most of our view is down into the courtyard, we can also get a glimpse of the outer world. Here’s what that looked like at dawn this morning.

Friday February 3, 2023

Today we went with E’s old friends M and L on a drive up to Salamanca, where their daughter T lives. T is a cloistered nun who is currently serving as the leader of a group of Clarisan Sisters. Her monasterio is located in a small village out on the Salamanca plain. To get there we drove on the autopista for a little over an hour and then turned off into a mostly flat agricultural area with broad fields punctuated occasionally by villages and small towns. Eventually we came to T’s village and found our way to the monastery, a long, two-story, beige-colored building with a mostly blank facade. We parked near the main entrance, which was a heavy door of darkened wood. We pushed a button and after a bit someone buzzed us in. We entered into a wide, high-ceilinged hallway, somewhat dimly lit, which ended in another heavy wood door. On the right hand wall of the hallway, there was a built-in display case showing examples of the various baked goods produced by the order. On the left side there was an open doorway that led to the visiting area. This was a plain but cheerful room with an orange tile floor.

It was really fascinating for us, first just to have a chance to see the setting, and then to see how such a visit took place. E and M sat in the two chairs facing the window, while T’s father sat on the left side of the table and her mother the right. After a few moments T came and pulled back the curtain on her side, which revealed a similar sized room on that side of the dividing wall. T greeted us all and sat facing us through bars. Parents and child all seemed really happy to see each other and we also felt welcome. We sat and talked for a long time. The whole visit lasted several hours and included a nice midday meal served at our table. This included tomato rice soup, lettuce salad with flakes of tuna and olives, baked fish with a layer of mashed potatoes and cheese on top, menestra de verduras (mixed vegetables in a thick sauce,) a fruit selection, and, finally, tiramisu with a selection of cookies from their bakery. After the meal we were joined by about twenty other sisters who sat in rows of chairs in the room behind Teresa. So we had a chance to chat with them as well. We talked about all sorts of things. It was quite an experience. On our way out we decided to buy some cookies, both because we wanted to show our appreciation for feeding us and because the cookies that we had sampled at lunch were so delicious.

Saturday February 4, 2023

We took an early walk this morning and picked up some pan rústica for breakfast along with a few other items we’ve been missing. A mouse tried to get at the bread. And it turns out that it was a mouse that E herself had brought back from the monastery! The things that M has to put up with.

Later in the day we went to visit some more old friends, who had invited us for dinner. P and M live in a town north of Madrid. We went by Metro and train to Las Matas station where P picked us up and took us to their lovely house in the hills. What a nice time. We talked a lot and ate too much.

Sunday February 5, 2023

Today we saw M and L again and had a meal at their house in a suburb to the south of Madrid. It’s not easy dealing with all this public transport, but for the second day in a row we managed to get where were going without getting lost or even being late. Good for us.

M and L—along with Buddy, Ke, and Jaeger—invited us for a dog walk into the nearby hills that overlook the Jarama river valley. The area was the site of a great deal of fighting during the Spanish Civil War, when a Francoist army came up from the south as part of a campaign to capture Madrid from Republican Loyalist forces that included International Brigade volunteers. During the fighting the hills were stripped of vegetation, but since then they have been reforested with Mediterranean pines. The area is now a reserve heavily used by cyclists and dog owners.

After our walk we had appetizers and drinks by the pool. And then, as if that wasn’t enough, L served us up a lavish dinner of Cocido Madrileño, a traditional sort of stew with garbanzos flavored with salt pork and various meats and vegetables. L made a special effort to prepare this so that M could try it for the first time. E had eaten it years ago, but it was a much simpler version.

Monday February 6, 2023

We went the Corte Ingles department store in the Nuevos Ministerios neighborhood. We did a little shopping and then went up to the top floor cafeteria for a midday snack, just as E was wont to do back in the seventies, when she was a Madrileña. We were happy to see that despite the march of time and change, it was still a nice place to be.

Back at home we did some household chores: vacuumed, did laundry, cooked our own dinner. Wow. And then, having purchased a mat at Corte Ingles, E joined her Zoom Yoga class. 10:30 PM here, 1:30 PM back in Corvallis. It’s odd how seamless everything can be if you have a good internet connection. Stream Netflix? Sure. YouTube? Apple+? Banking? All pretty much the same. A little strange.

Thursday, January 12, 2023

We have a slow leak in the left front tire of the Mazda. We took it to the tire shop, but they couldn’t find anything. That was weeks ago. So it’s still leaking and we keep on filling it back up. At least we have one of those new-fangled inflators right in our own garage. Not that we’re going to be driving much. We’re off to Cancun tomorrow, traveling by Uber, airport shuttle and Delta.

Friday, January 13, 2023

Our flight was at 7:00 PM, so we dutifully checked in at the Portland Airport around 5:00. The security check was our first opportunity to try out our newly purchased TSAPre status. Which did not work. We were rejected from the line of privilege despite what it said on our boarding passes. Plus M was selected for a random check even after he got through. Sigh. Is this what we get for traveling on Friday the 13th? But after that everything went well. We flew to LAX, then got onto the long flight to Cancun. M couldn’t sleep during the flight and ended up watching Triangle of Sadness, the Palme d’Or winning movie about a group of super rich folks on a luxury cruise. Was that a good thing to see while on one’s way to a full-service tropical resort? Maybe. Maybe not.

Saturday, January 14, 2023

We arrived in Cancun early in the morning. It took a little while, but eventually a hotel shuttle arrived and soon we found ourselves in a lovely room in the Solaris Grand Caribe. 

The hotel strip in Cancun extends along 14 miles of a sand dune peninsula shaped like the number seven.

Along with the Andees, our friends K and J had also come down. One of the nicest things about the trip was having a chance to visit with all of them. 

Sunday, January 15, 2023

Wonderful day at the beach. Some areas of the beach were closed due to ocean conditions; others were open. Where we went the surf was just rough enough to be entertaining.

Monday, January 16, 2023

The Andees hired a car and took us all to Tulum, about an hour and a half away. Tulum is a Mayan city that was built around the year 900. The Mayans abandoned it soon after the Spaniards arrived in the 1500’s.

We had a wonderful guide, a Mayan himself, who had lots to tell us about Mayan history and culture. Along with much else, he taught us the Mayan number system and also told us a dramatic story about how the Mayan written language was deciphered. This last may be have been apocryphal. 

Tuesday, January 16, 2023

We took a bus today up along the strip to a shopping area. We got some tee-shirts and some Mexican vanilla, the latter costing about the same price as it would in Corvallis, but never mind. Along the way we passed lots and lots of hotels. There were a few ugly square towers, but most of the architecture was impressive. And the sheer scale was awesome. There are more than 80 hotels along the 7-shaped strip, enough to accommodate many thousands of guests and to provide some thousands of jobs. 

This was our first experience with an all-inclusive resort and it was pretty nice. It’s true that the free drinks weren’t very strong, but that’s actually a good thing because it means you can have many drinks with little ill effect. (And real drinks are also available, at the so-called Premium Bar.) The food was mostly good, which is to say, rarely great but very rarely bad. Day-long free food sounds dangerous; but when a buffet is free, there’s really less motivation to heap up your plate. There were also sit down dinner options, which were awesome because the portions were small! What a welcome change that was. Also, we never had to deal with a bill at the end of the meal. Very nice.

On our last evening there was a members only ‘gala dinner’ with live entertainment. Just before we went down to dinner, we took at last glance at the sunset.

Wednesday, January 17, 2023

Up at 4:30 to get an airport shuttle at 5:00. A long travel day, but all went well. All planes on time or early. Even our Portland to Corvallis shuttle found light traffic all the way.

Thursday, January 19, 2023

So now we’re home. The Mazda tire was way low again. We took it back to the tire shop and this time they fixed it. Okay! But wait, now we have to get Roto-Rooter to unplug the sewer lines. Geez! Shoulda stayed in Cancun.

Saturday, January 21, 2023

Okay, so maybe we can relax today. Not too much though because we have another, bigger trip coming up in a week or so…

Thursday, January 5, 2023

The day has arrived for the belated birthday party for A and N. E’s plan was to start the proceedings with dinner at Kim Hoa’s Vietnamese, followed by a pavlova dessert at our place. She made the meringue early in the afternoon. A arrived from Vancouver at 5:00 and at around six we set off for the restaurant, picking up H on the way. N joined us there. By 7:00 or so we were back at our place and E started whipping cream and spreading berries. N opened a bottle of champagne and M found sparkling cider for H and some suitably fluted glasses. After candles and song, the pavlova was served. Vay, vay vay, as the Turks might say. It was good. There wasn’t much left at the end.

E had also gotten each honoree a confetti popper. They were spectacular, firing out masses of shiny, sliced up ribbon. Made almost entirely of hard plastic, they were about as environmentally unfriendly as you can get. Fun though.

Friday, January 6, 2023

January 6 is a special day in Spain, the day the Wise Men arrive bearing gifts. Here there was a special event of another kind. There was a small gathering by the river to celebrate the birthday of Morris Walker, a recently deceased acquaintance. There was flute playing by a native American, memorial remarks and finally the tossing of a little bottle of ashes into the river. The amazing part about the bottle is that it was made of some sort of dissolvable salt that would not hurt the river.

Monday, January 9, 2023

M has been reading The Philosophy of Modern Song by Bob Dylan, which is basically just an annotated list of sixty-six American popular songs from various eras and musical genres. Each entry shows the song’s title, the songwriter, the performer, and the date of release along with a number of photos that are related to the song’s time period or genre. And of course each song gets a few pages of text wherein Dylan shares some of his thoughts about it. Some of the songs are quite old–the oldest are from the 1920’s–and a few are from the early 21st century. The great majority, though, are from the years between 1945 and 1980. 

Many of the songs are very well-known or at least somewhat familiar to people of a certain age, e.g., Blue Suede Shoes, On The Road Again, Strangers in the Night, Mack the Knife, On the Street Where You Live; but quite a few are decidedly lesser known. For M this latter group would include such titles as Nelly Was a Lady, The Little Cloud That Cried, Take Me from the Garden of Evil, and Keep My Skillet Good and Greasy. Part of the fun is to see how many of the songs you recognize. And then you’re curious to see what Bob Dylan has to say about them. What you find is that his response to each song–famous or not–will go off in all kinds of (mostly) interesting directions.  

Inevitably, you’ll want to listen to each song when you read about it. Once Dylan lets you know, for example, that the harmonica part in a certain song was played by Stevie Wonder, how can you not want to hear that song? In the old days, finding and playing it might have been difficult. Now it’s just hey Siri, play Ball of Confusion by the Temptations…

Tuesday, January 10, 2023

We made a return visit to the Herbert Farm Natural Area. Went a little farther this time.

In the evening we had dinner with J, B and C at J and B’s house. A fine meal followed by peppermint pig smashing and a shortbread crust lemon tart. Hard to beat.

Wednesday, January 11

Today it’s back to work for E, who is trying desperately to finish sewing a beach cover-up for our upcoming mini-trip to Mexico with the ANDEES and friends. Oh boy!

Of course after yesterday’s indulgences, E is thinking she may have to enlarge the waistband on the beach skirt.

Sunday, December 25, 2022

A Christmas miracle: the temperature rose and along with it came rain and a great thawing. Suddenly the roads were passable, and the ANDEES were able to come for Christmas. A good time was had by all, we hope. We had a lovely Christmas Eve dinner of salmon and trimmings enclosed in the Dock Box that we ordered from Local Ocean, a seafood restaurant at the coast. Santa came overnight and we opened our presents the next morning.

Wednesday, December 28, 2022

Here’s a quick summary of the last three days. Rain. Cold rain. Steady rain. Lots of rain. And sometimes, gusty winds to go with it. 

Thursday, December 29, 2022

We met R and J for coffee this morning. We went to Tried and True down in the south part of town and breakfasted on great coffee and so-so croissants. Thus fortified, the four of us headed farther south for a mile or two to Herbert Avenue, intending to do some walking. There’s a place down there, past the edge of town, called the Herbert Farm Natural Area, which we had never heard of till Joe the builder told us about it. It wasn’t a bad day for a hike–rainy, windy and cold, but not seriously so. Bad weather in a jovial mood, you might say.

The chief feature of the natural area is Muddy Creek. The headwaters of Muddy Creek are only 18 miles away as the crow flies, but the creek wanders a lot and its total length might be twice that. Muddy Creek flows into the Mary’s river just half a mile north of where we went walking. Usually the creek is a lazy thing only a few feet wide. Trees and brush grow thick on either side of it, so you usually don’t see any actual water as it winds its way through farm fields and across a part of the Finley Refuge. But if it rains enough and you get close enough…

The satellite map below shows what the area looks like in the summer. We walked in from the east along the road that you can see in the upper right of the map. On the way we found that a short section of the road was flooded, but we were able to detour around it. But then, when we came to the place where the road curves to the left, we found it completely submerged under rapidly flowing water. We were able to continue our walk, but we had to go along the edge of an old field to do it. R pointed out that the higher ground at the edge of the field didn’t seem natural. Past farmers had probably moved earth to the area to create a berm to keep Muddy Creek out.

We walked all the way down to the lower left corner of the map. See the big oval broccoli floret down there? It’s a single oak tree. That, of course, was in the summertime. Here’s what it looks like from ground level in the winter.

At the place where the road was just about to dip down and disappear into the creek, we found something interesting. Here’s what it looked and sounded like. (Turn up your sound for the full effect.)

The bubbles, we think, come from air that is being forced out of the soil as water begins to saturate it. As the water pushes in, the air is compressed. What we were hearing was the sound of the air escaping from the ground under the water of this puddle. As we stood watching the bubbles rise in the water, we also noticed something else. At our feet we saw tiny spurts of water popping up out of openings in the soil. These were silent, appearing and disappearing in an instant. It was like the ground was spitting at us.  

These phenomena suggested the possibility that the floodwaters were spreading as the creek continued to rise. That was an unsettling thought. The whole area, including the parking lot and the road back to the highway, is just a foot or so higher than the water. In the end, though, if it was rising, it wasn’t rising very fast and we were fine.

Later, as we were driving back toward the main highway, we saw more evidence of earthmoving activities sometime in the past.

Saturday December 31, 2022

The forecast for today called for rain of the intermittent sort. We decided to take our chances and go for a hike in another place we’d never been before. It’s a place about an hour north of us called Miller Woods. Frieda Miller donated the area to the Yamhill County Soil and Water Conservation District in 2004. The drive up was pretty rainy, but our luck was good and things had improved greatly by the time we arrived. Our walk through the Woods covered about three and a half miles.

Later in the day, this being New Year’s Eve and all, we had to deal with three long-standing traditions: fondue, champagne and jigsaw.

Sunday, January 1, 2023

Serious puzzle work.

Monday, January 2, 2023

Tuesday, January 3, 2023

Nice weather in the morning today. The dark clouds have given way to some white ones, which makes a big difference. After spending a couple of days obsessing over the puzzle, we now turn to more real life concerns such as taking down the Christmas tree, tending to appointments, and planning a dessert gathering for two December birthday girls. We also need to do something about all of these horrible Christmas sweets. We’ve eaten enough to make us woozy and fat. The rest we need to freeze, give away, or maybe just toss out the window of the car next time we take a joy ride. (Except for the Frigor and the Christopher Elbow. We’re not done with those.)

Thursday, December 15, 2022

Not much rain or snow here lately, but still it was a cold and frosty world this morning, with winter mist in the air and a crunchy layer of frost. E walked to tertulia while M drove. Coming home, we switched roles.

Sunday, December 18

Fairly nice weather today with intermittent rain and sunshine. Our new neighbors down on Maple Street marked the upcoming solstice by inviting the neighborhood to a celebration. It wasn’t an open house party, but rather an open garage party that also featured canopies in the driveway and a couple of propane heaters. They served snacks and drinks and also gave every departing guest a bottle of homemade soup to take away. They had quite a crowd, but they were ready. What a nice idea and what an undertaking!

Wednesday, December 21

We visited Niagara Falls today. We didn’t know if we could spare the time, but we decided we needed a break from all this Xmas business. And as it turns out, the Oregon version of Niagara Falls is only a few hours away. Why had we never been there before? We don’t know. And why is it called Niagara Falls? Is it because it looks so much like that other, more famous, Niagara Falls? No. It’s pretty though.

There are actually two falls on this hike, both dropping into the same box canyon. The first one is called Pheasant Falls.

At our lunch spot we were at the end of the box canyon, with sheer walls rising on three sides. Only the northwest end was open, which means that the base of Niagara Falls hadn’t  seen direct sunlight for three or four months. And you know what? It was cold down there. The temperature up on hillside was somewhere around 40. Down in the bottom, it had to be in the twenties. We ate our lunch there anyway, but we did not linger.

The trail leading down to the falls was only about a mile long, but it is a lovely walk. In the beginning it follows a small watercourse downward. On the hillsides the trees are mature but not really old, maybe fortyish. But down near the stream in the bottom of the ravine, it seems like nothing has ever been cut and many of the trees are mammoths. Most prominent are the huge old ash trees, but there are also a few ancient hemlocks and cedars. On the ground lie their immediate ancestors, just as impressive in their way.

Thursday, December 22

So we had a break yesterday, but today was super busy. E started at 4:00 a.m.(!) by doing some digital correspondence. M slept in till 6:30 when he finally rose and made coffee. We had a pre-breakfast of wonderful Texas grapefruit and then read the paper for a bit before heading off for tertulia. It was pretty cold, 24 degrees, and the news was full of warnings about possible ice rain. So E decided to come with M in the car instead of walking. Later in the morning we went down to visit Wild Yeast, the newest bakery in town. Then we were off to Trader Joe’s for a few tidbits–boy were they crowded–before coming home to do some baking of our own.

M made pecan sandies. They filled the house with a wonderful aroma as they baked. But that may have been their high point. Our preliminary conclusion is that, as cookies, they’re not what they should be. Serves M right for having used an internet recipe. E, on the other hand, did something tried and true; she made her famous bars. They’re definitely good.

After the baking, it was time to deal with fact that the Mazda’s left front tire has been leaking. So off we went to drop off the Mazda at the tire place. Then it was time for a quick lunch: humus for M and leftover Solstice party soup for E. Then the guys from Lane Marble arrived to install the shower glass–the final piece of the bathroom remodel. Joe the contractor also came by to see how it went and to celebrate the project’s completion. Somewhere along the line, E had put together a small platter of cookies and fruit for him to take away. Then the tire place called to say the Mazda was done. Off we went again. E then went directly from there to a medical appointment, returning an hour later just in time to tune in to Laughter Yoga. 

Meanwhile, we’ve been getting bits of news from the world outside. From Big Sky, Montana, we’ve heard from our friends L and P. P has been working at the Big Sky resort for many years now, after leaving his job in Bend, Oregon back in the 90’s when that town got too crowded for his taste. Finally, this year, it was time for him to retire. We hear there was an awesome party to mark the occasion. We’re not sure how old P is; we think he’s 92. 

Friday, December 23

We got up to find Corvallis locked down by a layer of ice. Nothing is moving on any of the streets around us. We’ve never known it to be so quiet here. At 8:00 the temperature was 24 degrees and a light rain was falling, perfect conditions for making the ice even thicker.

By 1:00 the temperature had risen to 32. Not much help there; the ice was worse than ever. By 3:30, though, there were clear signs of melting. They say it will get into the 40’s later this afternoon and stay that warm overnight, so we may be able to move around tomorrow. Meanwhile we have heat, light, food and an abundance of unhealthy sweets. We’ll be fine. 

Peace, warmth, and happy days to all.

Friday, December 9, 2022

After lunch today J and R joined us in our first adventure with “cupping” at Margins coffee in Albany. Our host was Margins owner and roast master David, a thirty-something former chemistry teacher who seems to be really enjoying this coffee thing. He had five coffees for us to sample. Three were from Ethiopia, one was from Honduras, and one was from Indonesia (Sumatra). The photo above shows a cup of Taro, which comes from Ethiopia and which is dried via a natural process. More on that later.

Our host brewed the coffee very simply by putting grounds into the bottom of a cup, filling the cup with hot water, and waiting several minutes for the grounds to settle out. He then used a shallow spoon to skim off the coffee foam or crema. The result of this process was a thin liquid that was quite flavorful but not very strong. 

When the five sample cups were ready, David gave each of us a spoon and a tasting glass and then demonstrated how to use them. First you dip your spoon into one of the sample cups and transfer about a teaspoon of the brew to your glass. Then you have to slurp up the whole sample, trying to spray it into all parts of your mouth. Before demonstrating that part, David warned us that cupping is a noisy process.

During and after the tasting, David also talked about some of the many factors that affect coffee flavor. Different varieties of coffee plants, differing soil types and differing climate all have their effects. He also mentioned that there are two main methods of coffee processing: natural drying and wet drying. Coffee beans, we learned, are the core or pit of coffee fruit. The whole fruit is called a coffee cherry. In a natural drying process, fresh picked coffee cherries are spread out onto concrete or onto drying tables and left in the sun to dry. They need to be raked constantly so as to prevent rot and assure uniform drying. Once the cherries are fully dry, the outer skin and fruit are separated from the coffee beans inside. The wet process is more complex. First the coffee cherries go through a depulper, which removes the outer skin of the cherry, but leaves some of the underlying fruit still covering the bean. This remaining fruit material is called mucilage. The mucilage-covered beans then rest for a day or two during which time the mucilage starts to ferment–which releases sugar– and some of this sugar is absorbed by the beans. After two days, the rest of the mucilage is washed off. The beans must then be dried, either in the sun or by mechanical means. 

And of course roasting also has a great deal to do with flavor. So how do coffee roasters like David know which coffee will respond best to various kinds of roasting? The answer is that they don’t really know until they try. David performs cupping sessions every Friday and visitors are welcome, but even if no one shows up to watch, David does the cupping anyway. His purpose is to sample the beans that he has roasted earlier in the week to see how they’ve come out. We noticed him taking notes. Was he carefully writing down how each of us responded to each sample? Nah. People who are passionate about what they’re doing don’t bother with focus groups. He was making notes about what he tasted. It was great talking to him. Good company and a bit of caffeine. We all came away in good spirits.

Sunday, December 11, 2022

Wow. Quite a bit of sunshine today. There’s a big winter storm system in the news, but it’s passing a hundred miles or so to the south of us. 

Monday, December 12, 2022

As was expected by almost everyone, the implementation of Oregon’s new gun law has been idelayed, as there have been a number of legal challenges. The measure bars the sale of ammunition magazines larger than 10 rounds, requires purchasers to undergo firearms training, and requires that a background check be fully complete before a gun transfer can proceed. (This last provision closes a major loophole in the existing federal law regarding background checks.) The law is the result of an initiative measure that passed by a very narrow margin: 50.6% to 49.4%. The new law is opposed by many police and sheriff departments, partly because it charges them with the task of conducting the training and maintaining the records without providing any resources to support it. The legal challenges, however, are focused on the first provision, and claim simply that a limit on magazine size violates the constitutional right to keep and bear arms. 

The magazine capacity limit applies to new civilian purchases only. Military and police are exempted as are current owners of large magazines. This did not prevent one Oregon county sheriff from releasing a statement saying that if the law is implemented “we will be helpless to defend ourselves.” The position of the Meandering on the Way (MOTW) editorial board on this issue is that almost all of us feel that way once in a while. 

Tuesday, December 13, 2022

Another great weather day and also the day when we finally got the drawer pulls for our bathroom cabinet. Whoopee. This makes the cabinet fully useable and marks the next to the last step in the completion of the bathroom remodel. The last step will be installing glass panels instead of a shower curtain around the shower.

Tuesday, November 29, 2022

It’s a big week for our bathroom project. Today we got marble in the shower.

Wednesday, November 30, 2022

And today we got a granite countertop.

Thursday, December 1, 2022

Icy rain early this morning at our house; snow in other places. And then, by nine, the sun was shining, and M went out to rake apple leaves. Just as he finished, the sun was obscured by another passing shower. or two, or three, or four. Nevertheless, In the afternoon we drove east to Waterloo, Oregon and went walking on the south bank of the Santiam River. First we meandered through an eighteen-hole disc golf course, a long, narrow affair that threads its way along the river through a forest of firs, cottonwoods and the occasional blackberry thicket. Someone had once spent a lot of time and effort making it. Every hole had a number marker, a bench, and concrete pad to launch from. But all else was wonderfully natural. If you weren’t looking at a tee or a basket, you’d have no idea you were on a course. And even in the tee areas, there was a sense of disuse, as if the bench and pad  belonged to another era. Was it simply that December is off-season? We couldn’t quite tell. 

After touring the disc golf course, we returned on a path that runs very close to the river, which was running high and fast. 

Friday, December 2, 2022

Another major development today; we now have fixtures! It’s still not quite finished, but the bathroom is functional. M will move back in.

Drawer pulls, shower glass, and a bit of marble trim are all that remain to be installed. Poor M is already having buyer’s remorse and missing his old ugly bathroom. He’ll get over it.

Saturday, December 3, 2022

Time to prep for Christmas! We spent some time in the garage, pulling out lights, ornaments, and our trusty tree stand. Then we went and got a tree, a modest one, at our usual place. We decided to set it up immediately so that the fresh cut base wouldn’t have time to dry out. First, we had to move away the giant jade plant so as to clear space for the tree. But where to put the jade? Last year we tried moving it into the dining room for the season, but overnight it went limp and looked terrible. “I’m dying here,” it called out. “Don’t you care at all?” We knew we’d have to figure out a better place for it this year–but that would have to wait. We needed to get that tree up. 

Now, as we all know, the basic process of setting up tree up is simple. You put it into the stand and then one person holds it straight while the other person tightens the clamps. Unfortunately for us, we often have trouble with the straight part. Funny how many different ideas of straight there can be. And of course the trees we buy are almost always kinda crooked in themselves. (Why do we buy them then? We don’t know. They look pretty in the lot.) Anyway, we got through the straightening part okay and in the end there was our tree, in our stand, looking pretty darn good. Time to add water. E volunteered for this. She put in one liter. She refilled her bottle and started adding another liter. Then she noticed that as she poured water in at the top, there was quite a considerable amount of water oozing out from the bottom. Whoa! M was paralyzed with dismay, indecision, and general incompetence; but E quickly fetched towels to soak up the water and a basin to wring them into. After we dealt with the water, we took the tree back out of the stand and carried it back onto the patio. We examined the stand and found, of course, a large crack in the bottom. Our bucket, as the song says, had a hole in it. Time to break for lunch. 

So we got a new stand and some take-out food. And after we ate, we set up the tree again and poured water into it. And it didn’t leak. And that was fine. After that, M went out and put up the outside lights while E crossed the great divide (Walnut Blvd.) and took a walk up a nearby hill. She came back with the triumphant announcement that she had climbed 12 floors. In the evening we watched A Boy Named Christmas on Netflix. It was very nice, both nice in itself and nice in giving us a break from our current Turkish series, the endlessly frustrating but oddly addictive Black Money Love.

Sunday, December 4, 2022

We had an unexpected event today at breakfast when we got into some Hiatt Bakery pastries that we had previously stashed in our freezer. M’s treat was a moderate sized bear claw. E’s was a largish cinnamon roll. Prudently, she split it in half before attacking it. After taking a few bites, she was heard to remark “This is really sweet…really, really sweet.” And then later, “Ooh, it’s too rich.” Who would have expected such sentiments for this source? Strange indeed are the days in which we live. 

Despite the strangeness, we managed to take a walk in the forest and get the tree decorated.